Juliette’s Christmas Dress

Yes I know, it’s mid-January and I’m still talking about our Christmas dresses. It’s not my fault, it’s winter that has kidnapped all my energy. 😀

(This cutie face ! ❤ )

No #scrapsewing this time : this dress was not thought from scraps, but well thought upstream, when buying our fabric. When I started to draw my dress, I asked Juliette what she wanted to wear for Christmas. Mademoiselle wanted a dress (really ?), with a skirt that turns (REALLY ?!). I didn’t think more than 10 seconds to the choice of the pattern: the Tinny Dress was here for me !

But this time, I wasn’t going to rush headlong: my two previous tests having proved each time too wide (number one) (number two), so I took the time to compare my pattern to Juliette’s measurements. We left on a size 4 yo in width, for 6 yo in length. I simply raised the waist of the pattern, so that it sticks to the natural waist of Juliette. I lengthened the short sleeves in 3/4 sleeves, and opted for a simple bodice, no frills. By crossing my fingers so that this time, it works!

And the result is immediately more fun when the bodice is properly fitted on its small owner! So I simultaneously sewed our two dresses, when, at 24h of Christmas, Juliette proceeded to a first quick fitting, when I was going to put the zipper. Our two dubious flanks echoed: the dress was beautiful, but something was missing. We were dithering when Juliet exclaimed: “a collar!” BUT OF COURSE ! And it’s not like the pattern is offering half a dozen. 😀

Juliette opted for the regular Peter Pan collar, which I cut in the same fabric as the lining of her dress: an ivory cotton-silk blend from Bennytex. And what a beautiful idea she had, because the collar impeccably finishes the dress!

The skirt is a true circle skirt, which Juliette had the heart to prove to us on Christmas Eve. (Another miracle that no glass has finished on the ground 😀 )

The bodice is lined, and all the finishes are the same as those of my dress: fell seams everywhere and finishing seam at armholes.



And the back is finished with an invisible zipper.

Verdict: I let the smile from above answer? ❤ I’m really glad I got a nicely fitted dress on Juliette from this pattern. I find the latter really well thought out: the style is cute, the explanations so clear, and the number of options makes it possible to obtain a different dress with each realization. And icing on the cake: the model is up to 12 yo! I just cut a #scrapsewing in this pattern: I transformed the dress bodice in little top with buttoned back … I hope it will be a success too!

I wish you a beautiful weekend, and take care of yourself!

2017 Win & Fail

I think you enjoyed my last year’s summarize: we’re doing it again this year?


Let’s sum up the rules ? In general, I publish my sewings as soon as they are finished. I don’t really have the perspective of their portability. This summarize over a year allows me to see the worn sewings, those that were less, failures, success … and prove to you that:

  • yes, I have room to stock all my dresses, because they are not all winners
  • yes, even with experience, we can still fail … and it doesn’t matter!

~~~DECEMBER 2016~~~

Long sleeved Zephyr Half-fail. I don’t like this dress: first, its composition 100% polyester makes that I sweat a lot. And then, I find this milano too soft: it sticks my shapes and makes the dress much less flattering than desired. But now, we don’t fight against knit comfort: I wear it all the same, “secret pajama” vibes ! 😀

Nettie & Zéphyr, the new besties : Let’s take the pieces here separately.

Nettie: 100% WIN! It’s one of my basics. Even if I wear it too little for my taste: I love skirts, but definitely, I have the reflex to wear a dress in the morning. And it’s even worse in winter.
The Zéphyr skirt: Half-fail. Never worn since this post. And I realize it’s a shame. (That’s why I categorize it in half-fail: I’ve never worn it but I intend to do it one day! Conversely of fails that have not been worn and will never be.)

The Christmas SkirtHalf-Fail. Let’s call it the syndrome of the cursed skirt: you like the style, you like to sew it, you like to wear it for the pictures … but you don’t think about it afterwards. (Resolution 2018: stop putting pressure on me + wear my skirts in winter!)

~~~ JANUARY  2017~~~

Cathy dress, winter Aubépine100% WIN ! I wear this dress a lot, it’s a real cuddly toy. And each time I say the same thing: make a new one !

New Darling Ranges100% WIN ! I love this dress too, I love to wear it in spring and autumn. Naked legs and camel derbies: it’s my easy dress.

~~~MARCH  2017~~~

(No publication in February – thank you sprain)

When Wanted meets Moneta100% WIN ! Even if in terms of sewing it has defects, I wear it all the same. I love its color, the femininity of the bodice. And then, the comfort of the knit fabric … (Must have a hashtag right ? Like #secretpajama ? #theknitforce ? 😀 )

Luzerne100% WIN ! Didn’t leave me all spring, and a good part of this fall. So much so that I intend to sew a more autumnal version in 2018, because the beige doesn’t stick to my autumn-winter wardrobe.

Goji100% WIN ! And I write it to you with a lot of surprise, because I didn’t think I would wear it that much, and indeed, yes ! It’s super comfy: associated with a small red raspberry polo and white sneakers, I get a sportswear look but always feminine. (God, I’m talking like a women’s magazine. 😀 )

~~~APRIL 2017 ~~~

The Carrie DressFail ! It’s with this dress that I understood the interest of the colorimetry. And definitely, the pastel colors don’t suit me at all. When I see it in my wardrobe, I feel like meeting a nightgown. I had to wear it 2 times following this article.

The Nissa Dress100% WIN ! See, coming out this picture, a huge smile appeared on my face. That’s exactly what gives me this dress: an immense joy! I love this dress, its color, its comfort, the memories associated with it. This is the dress that I have worn the most this year I think. She looks like “me”.

~~~MAY  2017~~~

The Lio DressHalf-fail. In fact, if we see it in a “everyday use” point of view, it’s a Win because I have worn it a lot. I’m crazy about this pattern and this bright red. But if we take a “comfort” point of view, it’s a Fail, because the bodice is too short, the elasticated belt always goes up. I’m still trying to replace it, which ruins the pleasure of wearing it. Half-Fail so.

~~~JUNE 2017~~~

The Amal dress100% WIN ! Even if I admit that I choose the days I want to wear it. The small cap sleeves give a very distinct style to the dress, it’s a detail that must be assumed.

The Katy dress100% WIN, and believe me, this too is a surprise! I really thought that I wouldn’t wear this faded yellow, and in fact, this dress became my 2017 vitamin dress. As soon as I felt sad, a little grumpy: PAF, I took it out of the closet, and HOP, like magic, I found myself so much better. Do you think that wearing pineapples has therapeutic value? 😀

~~~JULY 2017~~~

Straps Zéphyr : Half-fail. Retrospectively, I find that the horizontal stripes of the skirt weigh down my figure. So I wore it, but without much enthusiasm. I carefully keep the pattern, and search for the perfect knit to reproduce it this summer. 😉

The Juliette Dress100% WIN ! I liked to wear it so much … it remind me of our Italian holidays … (here we come officially at the time of the summarize where I’m going to cry all 3 sentences, based on “winter stinks ” or other “I miss my summer wardrobe so much” and the famous “anyway spring is in 70 days “)

The Donna Dress : (I just shouted “MY BEAUTY !!!”) (True story ! 😀 ) 100% WIN, of course. ❤ How I love this dress! ❤ Without doubt my favorite of this year. ❤

~~~AUGUST 2017~~~

The Catherine Dress100% WIN ! I have worn it a lot too, it’s so thin that it’s ideal in our scorching countries. (And that’s when I realize that really, I’m more inspired in the summer, I have more ideas, more inspiration, more desire.) (Maybe I’m a bear and I have to hibernate ???)

The Sandrine Dress100% WIN ! Oh yes, but no, my favorite dresses for 2017 are the Donna dress AND this one. This one, I’ll be honest with you: I still have not recovered from its comfort. Sometimes I passed it by saying to myself: “Oh yes, but poplin shirt dress with a cinched waist, zero elasticity, arf, I will feel maybe a little squeezed”. BUT NO ! I think of all my creations this year, this dress has the best fit.

~~~SEPTEMBER 2017~~~


The Diana dress100% WIN ! Such a Win that by the time I write to you, I’m sewing the little wintery sister. ❤

~~~OCTOBER 2017~~~


The Eve DressHalf-fail. I have not worn it much since its realization, which is a shame. I will probably wear it more in the spring, because the crepe is thin.


The Clémence DressHalf-fail. Difficult to evaluate this one because it is a short-sleeved dress sewn just before the fall of the temperatures. It has necessarily been little worn for now, but I think it will be in the future. I notice that I prefer small dresses to large ones. I like to feel “contained” in my clothes: in a previous life I was sure wearing corsets. 😀

~~~NOVEMBER 2017~~~


Witches Duo100% WIN ! Right now it’s my dress “I don’t want to think”. Not motivated? Hop, lace tights, my Miette cardi in black, beautiful jewels, a red lipstick and presto! Ready to run the world. 😉


Let’s sum this up ? 15 WIN / 7 Half-Fail / 1 FAIL. Last year, I had listed 32 sewings (14 WIN / 11 Half-Fail / 7 FAIL). This year 23. The difference is explained by the fact that a good part of the sewings of 2017 are self-drafted : it’s obviously more time consuming than using a pattern. This also explains the predominance of WIN: a dress designed for my taste and my measures will be more likely to end in WIN than FAIL, even if in the end, the record shows that no one is safe from a bad choice of fabric.

So what to retain from this summarize ? Certainly not those numbers that mean nothing. Some will say that I have great productivity: believe me, if you compare to other bloggers it’s not much. No. What must be remembered is that everyone, I say everyone, fails. For a long time, I said that sewing was easy. It’s wrong. To succeed to associate a style, a morphology, a pattern, and a fabric, it’s hard. Very difficult. But that can be learned. By dint of manipulating fabrics, by sewing them, to wear them, you will gain experience. Made summarizes : this will allow you to see the parts you wear a lot, the ones you wear little. This will allow you to target your style. Test pattern designers : they each have a style and especially a basic block. Be faithful to those who sublimate you, to those who fit you well. And don’t be afraid to fail, oh no : they are not failures, but lessons. 😉

Kind regards, and take care of you. ❤

The Christmas Dress…

… or rather, the Christmas B plane. Believe me, this dress comes back from a distance. Like many of my dresses by the way!

(In advance, I apologize for the creased appearance of my dress, I was able to iron it before taking pictures, she didn’t like the micro ride, and I honestly didn’t have any motivation to repeat the session. Not fashion blogger / blah blah blah / you have grasped the general idea 😀 )

WELL, I work since September in drafting class on a fairly complex dress. I really hoped to wear it for Christmas but it was clear that it wasn’t going to be ready in time. So we were 15 days before Christmas, and I had to find a B plane : a dress with a pattern already validated, and fast enough and easy to sew.

So I chose to start from my basic dress: bodice with its princess cutouts, and my half-circle skirt. But obviously, as I don’t know how to do things simply, I wanted a neckline a little bit different. And it’s by falling on Gertie’s Instagram post that the idea was!

The red dress with the V notch, you see it? Superb, right ? The decision was made… but still had to make a small toile to validate my drafting job.


By practicality, I intentionally reduced the width of the neckline, in order to wear a bra. The photo on the left shows my first attempt: the neckline was too deep, the V too wide and not sharp enough. Rising the neckline of 1cm, and reworking the notch, the result was closer to my wish. The toile validated, I now had to find the fabric.

My choice was first posed on this floral denim from Papi: I had ordered 2m50, and prepared the pattern of Juliette’s dress while waiting for its reception. You will see the dress in detail in a dedicated article, but what is important to know now is that it has a circle skirt. And you know it: a circle skirt eats up to death on a lay plan. And by receiving the flowery fabric, our dresses didn’t fit into the ordered coupon. What’s more, the flowery denim were too stretchy for my project. And the black background of the fabric was darker gray than black. In short, we had to find a B plane.

A day to return my stash in all directions, never finding any coupon large enough to fit our two dresses. Because obviously, Miss Juliette DEMANDED our dresses to be cut in the same fabric. (and honestly, I take advantage of it, before she is old enough to throw my sewings in my face 😀 ). 2 days in all shops in Marseille, because yes, a week of Christmas, there is no time to order online. To finally find the ideal cotton satin at “l’Aigle d’Or” in Marseille.

Surprising that in 8 years of sewing, this is the first time I walked in this shop, which is still a Marseille institution. And my drafting teacher who advised me the visit was right (as always): it’s a real temple of Ali Baba. But expensive, the temple. I paid this cotton satin 17 euros/meter, which in itself should not seem exorbitant to the majority of you. But when you are accustomed like me to the market prices, it stings!

But let’s be honest: this cotton satin is worth this price. It’s of a very good quality, and its color is really bright.

The fabric finally under the arm, I could start the assembly of our two dresses: as they were built in a similar way, I sewed them simultaneously.

You see here the wrong side of the dress. I lined the bodice with a cotton / silk blend that I found at Bennytex. Not having the time or the desire to buy royal blue thread to overlock my seams, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to test fell seams.

(Apart from Auntie Papillon’s advice : When you are at 3 days of Christmas, you are not testing a new finishing technique. No. You take your blue overlock cones, which may not be the exact shade of your blue , and you’re going to the simplest, it will save you from living on December 24 between panic attacks and uncontrolled screams, cutting the last thread of your dress at 6:05 pm WHEN YOU ARE EXPECTED FOR 18:45.)

WELL, I had never sewed fell seams, and it is both simple and very clean. A little like French seams, except that these are folded and topstitched on the fabric. They were not easy to sew at the sleeves.

Especially on Juliette’s tiny sleeves. The trick is to sew them on 2 steps : A first time from the top of the sleeve, we stop at about 2/3 of the round, and we finish from the bottom of the sleeve.

But where was the most difficult, it was on the back seam of the skirt: how to finish properly these seam allowances, while they will be lined on the bodice, and that there will be a zipper on part of the skirt ? If the dress had been fully lined, the worry would not have been posed. But here only the bodice was. In the end I managed to fold and topstitch the seam allowances, but believe me, it was not easy. And by being honest about my work, topstitching is not regular everywhere.

And that’s where I forgot the essential: neat finishes inside a sewing is good. But when the wrong side becomes cleaner than the outside, it’s a problem!  😀

But again, it was a good lesson: the best is the enemy of good, definitely. And as my drafting teacher often tells me, perfectionism and fussiness must not be confused. (Hello the good resolution of 2018!)

What more can I tell you about this dress? The sleeves are 3/4, and the back is finished with an invisible zipper.

To ensure the stability of the V notch, I reinforced my middle lining with woven interfacing, and I stabilized the neckline of my outer bodice with interfacing ribbon.

And I also pulled down a little the middle of my size, so that it’s softer and that it follows my curves better.

Verdict: I learned a lot of stuff with this dress. I discovered a new boutique, a new neckline, a new finish … and a new motto. While winning a new dress in which I feel good, and sticks to my style: it’s still a nice gift right ? I wanted a fall-winter version of this dress, I’ve worn a lot in the spring and summer, and I think it’s successful. 🙂

I take this ticket to wish you a happy new year 2018. Let it be creative, and above all, full of love, laughter, happy memories. Each year a word accompanies me and illustrates the tone that I wish to give to the next 12 months: “indulgence” will be the 2018 one. Because before being kind to others, you must be towards yourself. And that affording a good dose of indulgence, it helps: to forgive your mistakes, to agree not to be always successful, to embrace his faults and flaws, and accept that they are part of us. Sew at my own pace, publish at my own pace. Sewing with pleasure, what it makes me want, without knowing want / need to demonstrate anything.

“Start by changing in yourself what you want to change around you” (Gandhi)

And don’t forget to take care of yourself. ❤

The Sally Coat

For 5 years now, I have written many posts here. But today’s one is particularly important: for the sewing obviously, but also its symbolic. A post that will mention both my greatest failure and my greatest success … yes yes, all this in the same post.

Everything started a year ago: a piece was badly needed in my wardrobe, and this piece was a coat. A beautiful coat. It’s been 8 years since I wore a RTW coat, bought pregnant with Tom. Quite cool, but that began to grow old. I had stitched Pavot, but the combination of wool and cotton lining didn’t offer the most efficient thermal regulation. No, I needed a warm coat, and drafted by me. So it was the big project of last winter’s drafting classes.

Everything started from this coat, spotted on The Quirky Peach Instagram. Big crush for its flattering cutouts, the studied details, the general look. So I was inspired to make this sketch.

At the very beginning, I wanted it pink. I was convinced that my coupon of a pink wool bought at a Agnes B sale would be enough … but my pattern pieces, once finalized, didn’t fit. A toile of the outer coat validated my drafting job, and I didn’t want to modify it. I then began to look for a pink wool elsewhere … without success. The ones I found were often stuffed with polyester, which didn’t suit me. And it was by chance at Mr. Albert that I came across a beautiful woolen camel.

100% wool with a touch of cashmere: the price was expensive, it’s true, but I wanted this coat to be the warmest and most qualitative possible. On the advice of my teacher, I invested in a beige silk, bought at Coupons Saint Pierre. And it was with my sprain that I started the sewing, gritting my teeth on the technical details, ignoring all the signs of Fate that meant to me that I was going straight into the wall.

Many mistakes are hidden in this coat. The choice of fabric already: I wanted so much a warm coat, that I chose a woolen too thick for my pattern, which requires a fabric with more drape. In the hurry, I made a mistake in drafting my lining: result, the hem pulls and is not harmonious. And above all, especially … this camel, which I wanted to persuade me that he would offer me a chic and timeless Parisian style … and that on me makes me look sick. Failure lived up to all the energy, time and money spent on this project: huge.

It took me months to recover from this failure, which also reminded me a sad period of my life. I packed this coat in a bag, hid it for months and in september, I finally felt ready to do it again.

But this time, out of the question to repeat the same mistakes: I carefully selected several woollen fabrics, ordered samples, and brought all this wisely to my teacher, who was able to advise me on the best choice: and it’s this 100% woollen fabric from Tissus Actifs that was elected. Its composition, as well as its weave, suited my pattern. I didn’t think more than 10 seconds about the color: my last coat was red, Pavot is red, I love this color that suits me well…it will be flamboyant or will not be. And as often, when something must happen, miraculously the planets line up: I found this flowery silk at Bennytex, which combines wonderfully with my wool. It was no longer time to back down.

Believe me, I was terrified of getting myself wrong again. The pieces stayed for a while on my desk. And then, by posting my failure on Instagram,  la Jolie Girafe comments with these few words: “tell you it’s time for revenge”. They gave me the effect of an electroshock: but of course, don’t be afraid, run! Face this challenge with bravery.

I remember, for the previous opus, I wished so much for a perfect work, that the sewing was long and laborious. I was never satisfied, stitching and tirelessly undo every step. I ended up bringing to this coat an incredible negative wave charge. For this one, I wanted to privilege the pleasure of the sewing to the perfection of a detail. Too bad if my piped buttonholes are not exactly the same: I didn’t want to hate this coat without having ever worn it. And God, I did well!

It is therefore mid-long, has princess cutouts, and has several panels, which flare slightly to the hips. The fit is cinched enough on the waist, but with sufficient ease to wear thicknesses underneath.

I was convinced that to have a warm coat, you had to choose a thick woollen fabric, triple the thing with fleece … basically sew a huge thing. My teacher told me that, on the contrary, the thermal quality of a sewing lies in the choice of materials. A 100% woollen fabric will be a good insulation. The choice of the lining is also important: silk being an excellent thermal regulator, it will keep you warm in winter. And for having tested my coat on a Parisian stay last week, I confirm it!

You can see on this photo the drape of my fabric, which suits my pattern.

And because we had to put flowers somewhere …

Beyond the beauty of the pattern, silk is delicious to wear. I don’t know if a combination of fabric can look more like me!

I opted for a stand up collar, which keeps me warm in windy days …

… added buttoned tabs to the sleeves …

… and sewed a belt.

Regarding the buttonholes, I opted for bound ones, following the Deer and Doe tutorial.

The buttons, as well as the belt buckle, come from la Droguerie : I had a crush on them for my first opus, and thank God they totally adapted to my red woollen fabric.

The pockets are slash ones.


Collar, cuffs, hem values, piping and pocket flaps are stabilized with facing. The collar and the hem of the sleeves and coat are glazed (the lining and outside of the coat are held by a loose stitch, sewn by hand).

Verdict: I had a dream, it was to discover the Dior exhibition dressed in my coat. Until the night before, I was really not sure I could wear it. Nor that he would be successful. And it was in the middle of the night, cutting the last thread, ironing the hem one last time, that’s it, I knew that the revenge was taken. My coat was finished, it was handsome, it was ready, it was falling to me as I hoped. What a joy and what a relief! See: we can make a complete mess, but REALLY a complete one, and get up. Can’t we see how a seamstress is strong when she can turn the machine on again after a failure ?

I wish you a nice weekend, and take care of yourself. ❤

The Sakura Bag

Change of season, new bag! And I must say that I’m particularly proud of this one.

Did you notice how we see flower embroidered bags everywhere? As a good floral addict, I wanted to have one too, and everything started with this bag.

(Crédit Photo : Amétys Cuir).

It’s an embroidered leather bag, sold by Amétys Cuir. Huge crush for this bag, but alas, I didn’t have the money to buy it. But the idea of making something inspired by this bag interested me, so I took the challenge.

But how to embroider leather without an embroidery machine? I tried to contact a local embroiderer, but he didn’t have any pattern that suited me, and creating a pattern especially for me would blow up my budget. There was no question of embroidering leather by hand (Ouch fingers!). And it was by falling on a bag with a floral patch that the idea came up: what if you did the same thing?

While digging a little on Etsy, I came across the shop Malicieuse, and this patch of cherry blossoms. I found the perfect patch! I had to spend HOURS thinking about the positioning of the patch on the flap: in whole, reduced by half? On the whole flap? To make it go from below, from above? Left, right? I made the whole family vote, took tons of photos … to finally decide on this positioning: reduced patch, and sewn from the right corner.

By buying my black leather at Varjan (28 bd des Dames, 13002 Marseille), I asked the saleswoman for advice to keep the patch on the flap. According to her, sticking it would not be enough, and would not hold in the long run. It was best to sew it. So I took my courage, and began to topstitch the entire patch.

Believe me, it was long and exhausting. Cutting my last thread, I thought to photograph the reverse side of the flap: the picture is very telling.

In general, I always choose flowery linings for my bags. For this one, I chose the sobriety of a red poplin: scraps that I had left from Juliette’s marquise costume. And I also innovated for interior finishes.

At the beginning of the year, a student asked me how to make a zipped compartment in a bag. I found myself very annoyed, not knowing how to answer her. This bag was therefore the perfect exercise to train.

And in fact, it’s very easy! Simply create a zipped case, split the bottom piece in two parts (not forgetting to add seam allowances to sew them later), and slide the “zipped case” between the two bottom pieces . This tutorial will explain all this to you much better than me. 😉

For the closing system, I chose golden magnets …

… and used a black handle that I had been given years ago.


But Heidi, my Bernina 350, as brave as she can be on the thicknesses, gave up on the very last seam: the topstitching of the top of the bag. If she was able to sew the front and back, she was blocking desperately on the sides: it must be said that the handle straps created a very large thickness, and that my lining was faced with Decovil Light. Can’t sew them by hand. And it was by asking my drafting teacher that she suggested me a great track: ask a cobbler to stitch it for me !


And it worked ! I asked the cobbler of my neighborhood (the Artisan Confiance, 30 Rue des Électriciens, 13012 Marseille): he sewed the missing points, and the recovery is undetectable! All for 5 € and with a smile: honestly I’m really happy, and from now on I won’t fight anymore with Heidi. 😉 (Thank you again Chantal if you read me! ❤)

Verdict: I love all my bags, but I admit that this one holds a special place in my heart. I find it really beautiful, and I’m super happy with the rendering of the patch on the flap. The flowers are bright, the leather is beautiful, and the zipped compartment super convenient. I am rarely fully satisfied with my sewings, but this is the case for this one. I feel like shouting to everyone in the street “HAVE YOU SEEN MY BAG ?! I MADE IT BY MYSELF !”  😀

A good weekend to all, take care of yourself! ❤