Poppy Anniversary

So here I am, back after 2 wonderful weeks in the Catalan Pyrenees with my family. ❤ I told you that before we left, there were 3 projects it was important to me to finalize: the Maia dress, the Charlie one… and a small gift for my husband because we were going to celebrate our 8th wedding anniversary in the mountains. ❤ In France, each wedding anniversary has a theme. And each year, it’s important to me to make him a little gift, home made, in connection with the theme of the year. After the wax anniversary (where I made a massage candle), the wood one and the little wood box with love notes, the Cyprus one (where I had made him a fragrance with chypre notes following this recipe in Aromazone) and the wool one with his winter hat … here we are at the Poppy Anniversary. And this year, the idea was rather easy to find!

I immediately wanted to sew him something red. Basically I had thought about making him a shirt but he asked me if I could rather sew him a short because he needed one. 4 years ago I sewed him the model 131 from Burda April 2012 and as he wore it a lot since, I picked up the same pattern.

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Except that we were 24 hours before the departure, no suitcase was ready and had to make it simple : no time for a hidden zipper, the simplification was required. So I took my pattern, and lengthen the front and the back of 10cms, I folded two times to create a slide. And I had a cord in 2 eyelets.

And it works ! I kept the pockets, and late in the day, I could slip it, relieved, in the suitcase.

In size 48 and cotton cretonne from Eurodif, poppy red of course. 😉

Conclusion : the pictures show you how rumpled it was, which is a good sign! 😉 Driven and approved by Sir, who was very moved by the gift. ❤ Ready for the “Faïence” anniversary ! ❤

Have a great week, courage to those who come back to work, and happy holidays to the lucky ones who still enjoy! 😉

Charlie Dress

Impossible to go on vacation without testing the gathered version of the Whitney dress: we spent a little time to draft the skirt, and I wanted to show a version to my teacher when school starts. And as often … I took a few detours before arriving at the final result. : D

I dreamed of a skirt that give the illusion of wearing a pettycoat… without wearing one. To do so, we took the pattern of the skirt with box pleats, and expanded the skirt at the pleats, adding almost one and half times my size in width, to obtain a sufficiently large and gathered skirt, while keeping its flared sides. And then I hit my goal!

Who said gathered skirt, said lightweigth/drape fabric. I didn’t have time to go shopping, I chose this very fine chambray, picked up at Agnès B sale in early July.

You can see in the picture how transparent it is: the addition of a lining was mandatory. So I sewed a second version of my dress, but this time with pleats instead gathers to avoid excessive thickness at the waist.

Let’s be honest, we double the time required to complete the dress, the operation is time consuming. But then … I think this is the dress with the best finishes of all my dressing. When I was young and I was shopping with my mother, she had an obsession with lined clothes (probably from her sewing shool: it’s not her job anymore but her eye has always been sharp on finishes). She said constantly “ah, and is it lined? Because it’s good when it’s lined, it is a guarantee of quality!”

Both say that today I feel like wearing a luxury dress! The lining is a viscose found at la Plaine Market, the same as my Mélilot.

And then, when I was about to cut the straps: what if I added ruffles? This is a detail I often see him on vintage dresses, and besides it balances pear shaped body, I find this detail absolutely charming. No problem here: I cut two long petals, I sewed a mini hem on one side, gathered the other side and slid in before sewing.

No but seriously, isn’t it super cute ?? ❤

The rest of the dress is similar to the earlier one: the bodice has princess seams and a sweetheart neckline …

…and the back is closed with a concealed zipper.

Conclusion : I was afraid that my chambray would miss some drape, but in the end I like the swelling of the skirt. Combined with the white lining, I really feel like wearing a vintage dress! I feel both very comfortable, feminine and pretty; and when I got those 3 points, it is key to success! 😉 There will inevitably be a new release next summer, this time in viscose, to see the gathered skirt in a more drape fabric.

And why Charlie ? Always immersed in Brazilian music, it would be hard to pick only one song, but here is one I particulary love.

It’s time for me to wish you a good August : courage to those who are working, and happy holidays to the lucky ones like us who leave today! And especially take good care of you. ❤ See you soon ! ❤

Maia Dress

There are three projects that are important to me to complete before the departure on vacation this weekend, and the dress I’ll present today is one of them.

Do you recognize the pattern? This is the Baptism dress. So we modified with my teacher the front princess seams, and I was happy to sew a new version to check the fit.

When cutting my fabric, I wanted to scoop the back, no doubt inspired by the current heat. So I redesigned my mid back, and assembled the whole thing.

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But when trying it, PATATRAS, it’s a disaster. You can see it here: one, the armholes need to be more scooped. Two, the back princess seams need, such as the front, to be belittled. Three, I need to cut some fabric at the sides of the zipper. Death in the soul, I ripped my dress (lining sewn by hand included), modified some pattern pieces and reassembled everything.

And here it’s good! I’m really glad I persevered: this fabric was a favorite of mine, and he deserved all these efforts.

I discovered this floral fabric thank to Rue des Réglises at La Plaine market: very thick but with some drapé, I was curious to know how the dress would fall, especially the skirt. And that’s exactly as I imagined: both dancing, dramatic and delightfully vintage. And thanks to the weight of the skirt, I fear nothing in case of strong wind! 😉 (Tested in action yesterday. D)

The dress is lined at the bodice and the stretch satin lining is sewn by hand on the waist and ribbons of the concealed zipper.


And still the heart neckline that I like a lot.

Conclusion: I think I’ll scoop more the back for the next one, because there will be a next one, for sure! I believe I have found THE dress pattern for cotton satins with summer colors. ❤

ps: why Maia? Thanks to Lisa from Make My Lemonade, I discovered the existence of a great web radio, that makes you travel musically through the decades: Radiooooo.com By chance I clicked on Brazil in the 70s, and since I am literaly obsessed with Brazilian music in the Seventies, and especially Tim Maia, dad of the Brazilian soul. And our favorite with my kids, it’s Chocolate!

Have a great week Ladies !!! ❤ ❤

Scraptastic ! #3

It’s Friday, the man of the house is on holiday tonight, we leave in a week on vacation and this is the complete hysteria here! ❤ I take a micro quiet moment to share you my latest “Scraptastic !” … Juliet’s dressing room has been spoiled this summer. ❤

Remember Whitney dress floral fabric ? It came from Bennytex. And who says Bennytex, says generous yardage… very generous one! Like, you ask for … 1m50 and 1m85 you go with ! After cutting my dress, I still had a lot of fabric, and I decided to re-use one of my favorite dresses from Burda: 639 of the Special Children Edition 2012 (37H).

I had already sewn it last year in a very fluid cotton. After trying it this year, the 104 size was still ok on her, so I took my pattern, and adjusted the length of the skirt to her stature.

It’s a really easy pattern: the bodice is fully lined, you get nice finishes. Not even need to hand-sew the lining, it is top stitched on the waist.

The back is buttoned with pearl buttons that come from La Droguerie.

Conclusion: it’s easy, it’s fast, it fills the dressing and my sweetie is happy … I say banco! Let’s see the Zephyr’s scraps ?

Well here I warn you right now: it’s a fail. I act as usual : I had an idea, I jumped into it … and then thought about it. : D And in that order, necessarily, it does not work. : D But as I am a hopeless optimist, I will try to focus on the positive assessment of this job.

So I had 2m of this scuba, and once my Zephyr cut, I still had some fabric for Juliette. I had in mind a relatively simple dress: a fitted bodice and especially, especially a half circle skirt. Not finding much in my pattern stock I thought about this dress Juliette has since this winter and that fits like a glove:

“Oh okay, huh, go, get out of your comfort zone, try to copy it! It should not be too complicated anyway!”

Except that in trying to go too fast, you make mistakes! One, I forgot to compare the thickness of the knits: scuba is much thicker than the navy knit of her dress. Two, I have only copied the top of the bodice, I drafted the half circle skirt alone … but I forgot to add sewing allowances at the waist sewing line, hence the waist is not that fitted. And three … I cut my neck and armholes bands too large.

WELL, that being said, I’m still glad I tried copying the ready to wear clothes : I wanted it for a long time without daring, and while this first experiment is not successful, I’ll learn from my mistakes.

And beyond all that: Juliet loves it! We quickly forget our sewing problems and the fail feeling when we heard the laughters of a little girl who turns in her dress, right?

(Oh, one day I swear I’ll eat this little cutie. ❤)

And you know what ? He even still had enough to spoil the last born of my dearest friend. ❤

Impossible to not see a short in this tropical fabric, and I just had enough to sew my favorite short pattern, the 140 of June 2014 Burda (already sewn 2 times for Paul).

Ultra simplified here: without seam pockets or back pockets. And I replaced the elastic by a rope and 2 buttonholes.


Cut in the 74cms size, I hope the little Gabriel will love it. Anyway, I put all my love for him and his family. This is what is magical about offers sewn gifts: each point holds so much love! ❤

I wish you a good wk girls, take good care of you. ❤

Tropical Zéphyr

Sewing has always been my escape. I do not know about you, but in these turbulent times, it became more. When the news are too darks ,when anxiety grips me, I wave my hands, turn my sewing machine on, runing from this crazy world, in favor of a princess cut or a mini hem. And now more than ever, dresses should have dancing skirts, fabrics must have funny prints. Futile without doubt for some, beneficial at least for me. And the dress of today is a little all this at once.

I found this scuba in La Plaine Market, along with Meurmoute and Aurélie. Love at first sight for these tropical flowers: resound in my head “Hawai !” “Elvis!” “Dancing skirt !” … the association with Zephyr was immediate, and I was eager to sew this kind of fabric for the first time.

I have long believed to have dug neoprene, until I read this article of Camille which explains the difference between this material and scuba. My fabric is soft and not ultra thick, I deduced he approached the scuba. Anyway, it’s a nice fabric to work with. I just struggled a bit on the armhole and neckline bands, because of its thickness.

(And for those who asked me the comfort of wearing a fabric such as scuba: we necessarily find the comfort of the mesh that adapts to your movements, but it keeps warm ! D)

About the size, I’m a 38.5 in Deer and Doe. Zephyr seam allowances are 1cm, but I sew knits with the serger, 6mm seam allowances. So I chose the 38 size, fingers crossed for this to work, as on my test Zephyr. And it worked!

Only problem, I do not know why, but I have weird pleats at the shoulders, on the front:

I do not know if the scuba or a bad choice of size is concerned … but anyway, it remains a detail and I will wear this dress anyway.

Zephyr is a very fast and easy pattern. I just had a hard time on the V-neck: you have to really be applied, but nothing insurmountable. This video is very telling if you ever have any difficulty.

Conclusion: loving my test version, I could not wait to sew me a new Zephyr, and not surprisingly, it’s a dress in which I feel really good. What I really like with this pattern is that it is very versatile: here I wear it in stilettos, giving it immediately a classy side. But accompanied by small white tennis, it adapts perfectly to my full time mommy life. I just have to be careful if I bend down! : D

A great week Ladies, take care. ❤❤