Scraptastic ! #5

A busy day is planned in the program today: are you ready? Let’s go, let’s go!

Then resume chronologically: I have not sewn Mariah dress scraps, for I still had a meter of my fabric, so I put aside this beautiful cotton sateen, which will maybe serve me on another project in the future. No scrap from my McCall’s dress, where the pattern cased perfectly on my lay plan.

Which brings us to the Agnès B knit fabric : given our mutual love at first sight, it was obvious that I had to fit something for Juliette on my lay plan. And I told myself it was now or never to test the Corfu dress from Ikatee.

The creator of the brand contacted me a few months ago, asking me if I was ok to choose a pattern in her catalog. I accepted the proposal with pleasure, and thus opted for the Corfu dress: a comfy knit dress with a boat neck and Dolman sleeves.

The pattern is intended for beginners: the explanations are very clear, illustrated with photos, and tips for sewing knit. I personally modified 2-3 things:

  • on sew the sides together and hem of the sleeves, the booklet offers to hem sleeves and then sew the front and back together: I did the opposite.
  • I used double needle hems, rather than a straight stitch.
  • I raised the elastic waist of 2,5cms.

The neckline is finished with a back vent with facing. The facing must be interfaced: I used stretch fusible, which helps keep the elasticity of the fabric. And I covered a button to close it.

The size is directly elasticated on the underside. The belt is not mandatory, but I find that it ends beautifully the dress.


Concerning the size, I opted for 6, and it’s a little bit large. That suits me very well since it is supposed to be worn next summer.

Conclusion : I think this knit fabric misses some drape to give a very satisfied result. I also have trouble with the very loose style of the dress, but this is mainly due to my personal taste. Anyway Juliet loves it, she finds it comfy. If you like the style and are a knit beginner, go for it, you’ll learn a few things !

And as I still had a little piece of knit fabric, I thought it was time to test the ultimate Stash Buster, panties!

Well here it is clearly a fail: it is too small for the sweetie. I self drafted it quickly from one of her panties, and it is too tight to her thighs. But it does not matter, it has the merit of being quite well sewn and had me demystified this garment… until the next one!


Let’s skip to the Vitamine Dress ?

I had such a crush on this fabric I wanted to make it profitable. I did not think more than 10 seconds to the pattern : it will obviously be a new Mini Perle Skirt !

(“How dare you young lady !?” 😀 😀 😀 )

Ah Mini Perle… it’s only my sixth version. : D What do you want, I never get tired of this pattern, it’s always a pleasure to sew. I am also convinced that Juliette thinks it’s HER skirt. : D

As I wanted that she could wear it next summer, I cut in 6 years, and added 5cms to the hem, hemming only on 1cm. Normally it should be good.

I piped waistband and pockets, and used my stretch satin for lining.

This one could be renamed the skirt “Yes but No”, in relation to the matching stripes that are not successful at the belt. Honestly, I could undo everything and start over, but … no. Laziness. We will say that I advance on the way of letting go. : D


Conclusion : and then, who will check for matching stripes, with that smile, eh, I ASK YOU! I will not repeat my love for this skirt, I just thank Ivanne to have graded it up to 12 years, if I calculate well, with 2 or 3 Mini Pearls every year, I will soon open a shop. : D

And guess who get a vitamine part ?


(“Oh ? Waht’s wrong with your tongues today ???”)

This is my little Paul of course! It was time for fall to come I’ll tell you, because I think I got a problem with shorts. 😀 I see shorts in all my lay plans, I dream of eyelets and cord … it’s serious doctor?

Always the pattern 140 from Burda June 2014, here simplified to the maximum: no back pockets or on the sides. A slider, eyelets, cord, and off we go: in the wardrobe for next year!

I was only able to cut the size 86 : I have trimmed margins and hemmed on only 1cm: as now it’s big enough, I am hopeful for next year.

If you are still there and you have survived this river post, I wish you a nice weekend! Take care of yourself. ❤

Rue / Colette Patterns

I often compare the pattern launchings to bowling games: some balls take to the track, and according to my taste, my desires, my needs, will sooner or later join the channel, disappearing from my sewing landscape. And then there are patterns who tumble, explode all the pins in a split second, like a to-do list perfectly staged, disappearing in favor of a single desire, compelling and irresistible. These patterns, I called my “Strike” patterns and Rue, the last Colette dress is part of them. ❤

Ah Rue. It must be said that this ball there took a huge run-up: Colette had distilled clues the weeks prior the launching, announcing their return to vintage vibes, after some more “modern” patterns. Both say that I literally counted the days before the official release … and I was not disappointed.

I just got a little doubt on the curved seam which was bang on the breast, and the flannel version of Sarai told me the change I needed to do: lengthen the center front bodice. Before anything else, I made a muslin, size 4:

In the end, I find the curved seams rather nice, but I knew it would not work on my chosen fabric, soft and quite thick, especially at the breast pleats. I also had to lengthen the bodice of 2cms. Here are the changes I made:

  • lengthen the back of 2cms (according to the lines indicated on the pattern)
  • lengthen the central front bodice of 5cms (as explained in this sewalong post) and reduce the same piece of 3cms at the tip, and redrawing the curved line with a french curve
  • shorten the side yoke of 3cms, just below the curved line.

I do not know if the method is right, but anyway, it works pretty good. My only complaint is at the level of the chest, under the armholes: there is excess fabric, unsightly but fairly comfortable. Need to fix it for the next one.

(Note that with these head shots, I totally forgot to match the stripes. And I really do not care at all ! D)


Another change: I also shorten the lower back and the top of the skirt back of 1,5cms cause of my quite pronounced back curve.

Concerning the skirt, I shortcut 10cms. If the back is in 2 parts, the front actually consists of 3 parts: the side pleats hide 2 seams. The drape is really beautiful.

(Yeah, twirling skirt !) (35 years old, why ???: D)

I chose the version 1, with short sleeves. I’m really fan of the neckline: associated with quite short sleeves, I find that balance nicely pear shape ladies.

But the other highlight of Rue is its super neat finishes.

(back side of the dress)

Basically, the dress is fully lined: My fabric is thick enough, I chose to only line the bodice and the sleeves with white stretch satin.

Do you remember the neat armholes finishes on my first self draft dress, the technique my teacher taught me? This is exactly the same technique here: quite difficult to sew, but then the result is worth it.


Beautiful right?

In detail, I added white piping on the curved seams.

Regarding the fabric, it was obvious from the start: It had to be stripes. But beware ! Yellow and white, and wide ones. It had to be cotton, not too thick, ideally with some spandex for comfort. Both say the grail. And after hours of search on the net, it is “Aux Tissus de Roubaix” where I found the pearl! You know, I do not like to order on the Internet, but this time, I did well to take the risk: this fabric is exactly what I wanted.

I found the Colette explanations quite clear. All steps are illustrated with sketches, and links to videos are associated on the more technical points. Add to that the super sewalong who stands at the moment, and you really have no reason not you stick to it, if you like Rue !

Conclusion : it is not quite perfect, but for a first try, I’m pretty satisfied with the result. Comfort either at the armhole or waist is really great, I feel as comfy as in a knit dress, I swear ! And those yellow stripes are perfect for the Indian summer we are experiencing: I think I’ll rename it my Vitamine dress. ❤

A great weekend girls, take good care of you! ❤

Saving Private Jersey

Serendipity : The faculty of making fortunate discoveries by accident.

Known examples: penicillin, the microwave oven, tarte Tatin.

And let me add, my Pyjashort. : D


It all started by a love at first sight during a Agnès B sale : Juliette and I fell on this neon jersey. Hysteria, ideas coming from everywhere and especially, adorable negotiation with a reader of my blog who agreed to share the end of the roll with us. (I do not remember your name, but we thank you again! ❤). We leave with our coupon in hand, already dreaming of a stylish 90’s Moneta, that I will wear with small sneakers.

Jersey is medium thick, with very little drape. And my radar “ALERT UNFLATTERING GATHERS” who was not activated in time, the result was predictable: my Moneta’s ugly.

I understand, too late, that a half circle skirt would have been more flattering. But having already optimized my lay plan for Juliet, I have no more fabric left. I’m tired, it’s late and I imagine to draw a 1/4 circle skirt in the pattern of a gathered skirt. I cut something that vaguely looks like a 1/4 circle skirt. And the result is clear: it’s ugly, it’s too small and worst of all: it’s too tight.

In a desperate impulse, I restore my gathered skirt and pull out my trump card: box pleats. The result is … um … I let you judge by yourself.

The result left me somewhat doubtful, halfway between the stylistic idea found on LSD and the ugliest thing ever sewn. I questioned, seek the opinion of all members of the family and end up having enlightenment: “it’s a little nightgown anyway … but … wait … and night clothes, wouldn’t it be great ??? ”


(Hihihi yes I am very proud of myself. D)

The catch was super easy: I just recovered the top of Moneta, which I added a hem band, like in Ondée. (Thank God I kept a tiny bit of fabric to cut my neck band!)


And I simply cut a short in the skirt.

To do so I used the109 short from Burda July 2011.

Ultra simplified here: I have not sewn pockets, and redrawn the contours of the hem so it is just right. Having no place on my left fabric to draw the seam allowances around the pattern pieces, I copied a 40size at the waist, expanded to a 42 on the hips. And the fit is great !

For lack of fabric again, the belt is thinner than that provided by the pattern. I replaced the elastic by 2 eyelets and a neon green cord.

Conclusion: it’ll probably seem foolish, because there is no technical difficulty in this set, but I’m really proud of this work. Having had the foresight and the courage to insist at the failure to obtain a very cute set, and for once, very helpful (I really need this kind of outfits and of course, I never take time to sew): fate still do great things. 😉


(Here you must imagine Paul on my left who makes faces to make me laugh. ❤)

Good weekends girls, take good care of you! ❤

Chambray McCalls M6696

Otherwise, we found the name of the famous medical disease “OH MY GOD this dress is crazy I would never take it away”? No because today I have a new case to show you. 😉

Ah McCall’s M6696: hit pattern in the USA and England … that was totally unknown to me. And when discovering the Heather’s wax version, that BOOM, love at first sight. But really. Usually before buying a pattern, I weigh the pros and cons forever. But there … 15mins after reading the article, my order was passed in Rascol. Love I tell you.

This chambray comes from Bennytex, bought during my trip last November. I immediately saw a shirt dressq for this summer and when I found out this McCall’s pattern, the association was immediate.

This dress has many charming details, but my favorite is the pleated skirt. Watch as the skirt is nice when the wind rushes!

The other highlight of this dress is the ability to sew according to your cup size. Yes ! You have the choice between three sizes: A / B, C and D.

I confess not being very confident at the beginning: when you have the habit of sewing self drafted patterns, test a new brand pattern can be dicey. So I opted for size 12 and C cup, shortened the bodice by 3cms, and reduces the length of the skirt by 7,5cms. (And bloody fingers crossed at the time of fitting. D)

AND WAS MIRACLE! Honestly, the fit is per-fect. The waist is the way I like it: fitted enough to be flattering, but with the ease needed to sit comfortably.

Other change also made: like many other seamstresses, I did not sew the gathers at the back : I cut the top of the back bodice at the same width as the yoke, and managed the extra fabric at the waist with box pleats.


(Sorry for the back traces / Marseille’s heat / real life / not a fashion blogger 😀 )

I loved sewing this pattern. Really. This is not an easy dress: there are many steps, many details, especially a lot of hand sewing. Generally, I try to sew as fast as possible to switch quickly to another project. There, I wanted to take my time, do things slowly, step by step, as the seam was great. Really, I even used French seams ! : D
There you see the dress on the wrong side. It’s surprising, McCall’s probably isn’t in love with topstitching because there are none here. Placket, collar and belt are sewn by hand. (Normally the hem too but I did not understand the explanations, I simply hemmed with my machine.)

(wrong side, always)

The sewing yoke also had to be sewn by hand, as I did not understand the explanation there either, I preferred the burrito method. (. No, I do not talk about Mexican food, whatever, wecould, it’s one of my great passions: D) (no, more seriously, watch this video below, it is very telling.;))


Armholes are supposed to be topstitched, but the result was really not happy. I preferred the hand sewing. (I discovered one thing : by rubbing the thread against a dry soap, no more knot while stitching. It’s magic!)

The dress has a belt with loops …

… And the neck is the way I like it: with a collar and a collar stand. I did not sew the pockets (always afraid to add thickness where it is frankly not necessary for me). And I have, unsurprisingly, sewn pearl buttons.

Tell me you do the same when you wear a collar. : D

Conclusion : I therefore announce formally a new splash in my favorite patterns. ❤ I loved sewing this pattern, I am delighted with the result, right and wrong sides, and I love wearing it: there will inevitably be little sisters … why not this winter in long sleeves?

Wish you a great week Ladies, take care. ❤

Scraptastic ! #4

Let’s go for some Scraptastic Sewings !

So we start chronologically with the Maia Dress scraps : I was hoping to have enough fabric to cut off the A line dress from the book “Total Liberty pour les petits” and I got lucky because the pattern in size 6 fitted perfectly on the lay plan.

Oh yeah huh, I’m not lying! : D

I had forgotten how the pattern is short, but at the same time, the photo book does not lie. The 3cms hem is within the seam allowances: here I minimized, with mini hem.

For my 5 years old sweetie, it’s ok for this summer. But the great advantage of the A line dress is that you can also wear it in winter! With a long sleeves sweater and opaque tights, it will be perfect.

And then, ok, I can confess : I LOVE sewing this pattern. There is nothing easier, faster and more rewarding than a small A line dress. You assemble the sides of the dress, the sides of the facing, you assemble it at the neckline and armholes, a little bit of notching, you return the whole thing, you made a hem and presto! You have a dress! Isn’t it great ??

And worse then if you play it lazy like me, change the buttons by KAM snaps, and it’s even easier and faster! : D

Conclusion : Juliette loves it, has already chosen the color of the sweater for this winter, and I really enjoyed myself in sewing. Win-win! ❤ Let’s skip to the Charlie Dress scraps ?

Yes, a short, AGAIN. : D In fact, this Burda short is my little A line dress for little boy. : D

Nothing is easier or faster: for this version, I’ve zapped the sides pockets, but kept those topstitched on the back.

A slide, a fun neon cable, 2 eyelets to pass it off, and presto, it’s in the bag!

This one is cut in size 2, and it is perfect for my 2½ years sweetheart.


Conclusion : it fills the wardrobe, it’s easy-peasy and fast, this is a perfect stash buster… basically, I LOVE IT! Let’s finish with Tom ? 😉

This school year, my sweetie needed a work coat. As soon as he knew, he asked me to sew it for him. So I looked for a pattern, and found this perfect one at Gasparine.

The designer, Amélie, is adorable because she gives us this pattern for free ! And pay attention, here free does not mean lower quality: the pattern is well cut and goes with clear explanations.

This work coat is not strictly speaking a #scraptastic sewing, or maybe a little bit. Searching with Tom in the stash, he chose this blue cretonne cotton, once bought at Mr. Albert to sew appliqués to Paul’s linen bed, when he was a baby. I had used barely 10cms: and as chance would have it, the pieces placed on what was left, to perfection. Here you can see the coat in size 8, without modification.

This pattern is really well thought out: the sleeves are elasticated, the buttonband is asymmetric, and a pocket with pencil storage is even expected! Tom preferred a simple pocket with a flex of BB8 above: Cameo and I are therefore set to work with application. 😉

And he also chose white snaps: a real little boy from Marseilles ! : D


Conclusion : I’m not ready to forget his smile when I handed him the coat, complete with love. Forget dresses, bags, and all these things: the true happiness of sewing, that’s it, realize the dreams of our kids! ❤

A good weekend girls and take care of you! ❤