Long sleeved Zéphyr

Woven dresses are fine, but let’s be realistic: what I wear most often, and with the most pleasure, are still my knit dresses. Secret pajamas, as the American seamstresses would say! And if there was indeed a dress scheduled for this fall, at the very top of the list, it was indeed a long-sleeved Zephyr. ;

dsc_8857
Yes, Zéphyr is perfect but Zéphyr has a small flaw: it does not include a version with sleeves included. It is drafted with plunging armholes : adding sleeve on it, without previous work on the bodice, could be risky. As one works with a knit fabric, the trick is possible, but in the visual the rendering will not be optimum.

Honestly, if I had not followed drafting classes for a year, I would not have asked myself the question and I would have opted for the last born of Pauline Alice, the Aldaia, which is a beautiful knit dress, similar style. But alas, I myself have a small flaw: I am madly in love with Zephyr décolleté. 😀

dsc_8869
This V neck, sexy without touching, I find it perfect. I know that for some it’s quite deep, but precisely, that’s what I like. 😉 At 35 years old I finally understood that when you have assets, you have to take advantage of it. 😉

dsc_8829
So I started a little work on the bodice. I enlarged the 4 pieces of the bodice, 2 cms, at the shoulders and armholes. So that you visualize the thing better, I took some pictures :

dsc_8949
dsc_8953
In tissue paper, you see my Zéphyr pieces in size 38, without sleeve. Below, on colored paper, my reworked version. Warning: I do not pretend that this modification is done according to the rules, I tweaked in my corner, without asking my teacher for help. Anyway, on me, it works!

dsc_8814
For the sleeves, I simply took my mix between Moneta for the sleeve head, and Wren for ease and length, and it works there too.

dsc_8828
dsc_8802
For the size chosen, always 38, but sewn with 7mms seam allowances. So rather a 38.5 at the final rendering.

dsc_8794
The fabric is a Punto di Roma knit found at the Plaine market. The coupon was over 3m and the seller gave it to me for nothing. I find two defects: one, the composition 100% synthetic makes one sweat a lot. And it has too much drape: it sticks quite a lot and makes the skater’s skirt less in shape than I would have liked. Finally, I know that this dress will still be worn. (what’s magic with knit fabrics: a moderately successful woven make, I know I won’t wear it very often. The moderately successful knit make, I know it will save me regularly , some tired mornings.We can’t fight against knit comfort :D)

dsc_8866
dsc_8886
3rd V-neck, and this one passed by itself! 😉 There is no to say, exercising always pays.

dsc_8877
Conclusion : I’m really happy with the changes on the bodice, which will allow me to be able to redo Zephyr with sleeves, as soon as my road recross a beautiful cotton jersey, a little dense. You think that Santa Claus accepts this kind of orders ??? : D

dsc_8831
A beautiful weekend Ladies, and courage in the Christmas preparations ! 😉

Scraptastic ! #5

Ready for some Scraptastic Sewing ? Hop hop, let’s go, get into the bus ! 😉

dsc_8888
Ah this fabric. Believe me, there really was not much left, but I wanted at all costs to sew something for my baby girl in it. I immediately thought about my knife-Swiss Burda pattern, the dress 144 from Burda/May 2014.


Through lack of fabric, I thought about a top version, with 3/4 sleeves. At the time of cutting, BAM, not enough fabric to make the back on the fold. But we do not stop a butterfly motivated like never: I simply added seam allowances and sewed the back in 2 parts.

dsc_8899

(Yeah I was really proud of myself.: D)

But it did not last: definitely, the top at the fitting was too short. And then I pulled out my ultimate weapon: the gathered band.

dsc_8902
And that’s good! And in addition it gives a very cutie side to the top.

dsc_8912
Rolled hem compulsory, and finish with a facing, embroidered flange and button covered for the back.

dsc_8913
Cut in size 116, it’s just large enough for Juliette : she will not wear it beyond this winter, but considering what I had left, I’m already happy with the result!

dsc_8910
And Juliette likes it very much: she finds it “very cute”. Scraps sewn to the core + Happy Juliet = Happy Mama !

Let’s skip to the Pinafore dress scraps ?

dsc_8943
Again, there really was not much left for me. I was thinking about a pants like harem pants for Paul, and during some shopping time in a kids store, BIM, love at first sight for this skirt:


You don’t see it in the photo, but the back of the skirt is cut in 2 parts. And that’s where the idea was: to find a similar pattern, and to simply divide my half-fronts, and my half-backs, so that I could cut them in my scraps !

dsc_8933
I chose the Ikatee Cherry skirt: to properly cut my pieces, I took my pattern pieces, delineated the middle of each piece, and traced my line respecting the straight-wire. And it went on my layplan to the nearest millimeter!

dsc_8921
dsc_8941
My skirt has 8 panels instead of 4, and it works just as well! Just do not forget to add seam allowances before cutting into the fabric. 😉

dsc_8935
(This girl is a real sketch.: D)

I opted for the size 6 years, and as with my previous test at Ikatee, it’s a little large, but it does not matter because the belt has an adjustable elastic!

dsc_8947
You know, I’m a fan of this detail in kids clothes, and I was thrilled to find this option here. And of course, my baby girl asked for a heart printed lining ! ❤

dsc_8931
It is finished with Prym snaps, same as Rosari ones.

dsc_8917
Conclusion : in truth I’m sad I didn’t sew the same for me !!!! 😀 I LOVE her skirt! 😀 If my road crosses suedine or babycord one day, I know what I will have to do. ;

dsc_8942
A beautiful end of day girls, take care of you! ❤

The Butterfly Dress

If you knew how long I dreamed of a wrap dress. When my drafting teacher, at the beginning of the school year, asked me if I wanted to plunge myself into a complicated project right away, or, to draft me a little desire, to get back on my feet … believe me, it did not take me more than 10 seconds to get this sketch out.

dsc_8716
img_2353
One can be inspired by a fabric, by the lines of a pattern: here it was a bit of the 2. I wanted a wrap dress, but without knowing the details. And it was by touching this microfiber from Bennytex that the evidence was: I imagined a fluid dress, a very flared skirt, an elasticated waist. A dress in which I can feel feminine, but at the same time feeling comfy. With sleeves, to be able to wear it in any season.

dsc_8651
To do it, I took my basic bodice. I added ease to get the elasticated waist, shortened the bodice and drawn the wrap-around, as well as a belt. I took the sleeves of my basic dress. Concerning the skirt, I took again my half circle skirt made on my measurements, which I enlarged so that it sticks to this wider size.

dsc_8667
A quick toile of the bodice validates the drafting : I start to sew the dress. Wishing the back as clean as possible, I line my front and back on the bodice. According to the advice of my teacher, to prevent the crossed faces from relaxing to use, I sew a thin ribbon on my neckline.

img_2392
I take the time to sew my lining at the armholes, to have no visible seam. And when it was time to sew my bodice to the skirt and belts (also lined): big black hole. I did the stupidity of any beginner in drafting pattern class: I drafted without thinking about the assembling, and find me with a hangdog look in front of my work. I spent hours there, dreaming at night, sewing, seam ripping, sleeping with my pieces of toile (true story) and ended up asking my teacher for help.

dsc_8648
That day I’m slightly febrile, my teacher tired, and we are unable to cope with it. She proposes to give her the dress during the Halloween holidays : she will study it again with head rested and we will talk about it at the return … where I find her with this file under the arm.

dsc_8762
A real technical file, which she took the time to write, for me, on my dress: as in any workshop, with a real range of assembling, technical symbols, and everything …

dsc_8763
Wow. Believe me, I was flabbergasted. It is a document that I will keep safe, for the assembly of my dress evidently, but especially as a beautiful memory. Time is something precious, and she has been able to consecrate it to me, which touched me very much. Thank you again Chantal. ❤

dsc_8744
And in fact, the assembly was super easy ! We had been disconcerted by the layers: but in the end, we just had to sew them in sandwich, between the 2 belts. Here is the dress on the wrong side, for you to visualize.

dsc_8760
dsc_8715
The magic of this dress is largely in the fabric used: you know, I rarely buy fabric on the internet. But this summer, when I discovered this print on Bennytex’s Instagram, my heart missed. These butterflies, these colors, I could NOT miss this fabric. And at reception, I was not disappointed: very fluid, not transparent, it was perfect for this project.

dsc_8658
The dress is exactly as I imagined: the cleavage, the short and dancing skirt are feminine details, but the elasticated waist makes it easy to wear everyday.

dsc_8727
dsc_8736
dsc_8643
Unique small problem that you can see in the photo above, my chest goes back slightly the waist on the front. For the next one I will need to retrace the waist of my front bodice by lowering the middle of 2 cms.

dsc_8733
dsc_8730
dsc_8740
Conclusion: I believe that one can read in me like an open book, and just see these photos to guess what I think of this dress. ❤ I am happy with my drafting pattern job, delighted with the result, and I know there will be little sisters: why not in this beautiful ruby red polyester that sleeps in my stash ?❤

dsc_8724
Wish you a good week, take care ! ❤

Rydell Dress

Ah, I have a lot of dresses. But a garment was sorely lacking in my wardrobe. A garment I dreamed of for an eternity. A project that has always figured in my to-do list, but constantly caught up with other, more impetuous cravings. And then one day you can wear one of your dreams. And that’s priceless. ❤

dsc_8492
At the start, I had a crush on La Thai qui Riz pinafore dress : I needed one too, but in a more fall style. When Pauline Alice lauched the Turia dungarees, I thought of hacking it into a dress … until I banged my nose on Coco and realized my body shape was not ok with trapezoid shapes. So my pinafore dress dream has gently plunged into oblivion … until the exit of Rydell.

dsc_8568
Ah Rydell. To confess to you I first cracked on its name. Secretly I hoped that the designer had chosen it in reference to one of my favorite films, Grease … and when I had confirmation, it was said: we were made to each other. Its fit’n flare line adapted to my morphology and the great versions of my friend Manue convinced me: it was time to cut this babycord, bought years ago at Mr. Albert.

dsc_8513
For years I heard that babycord was a real sewing wound. And so I can confirm it: it’s really painful. The material slips, does not stand to be seamripped and it is very difficult to get clean topstitching. Moreover, mine is stretch: as much to say that I suffered. It is probably not the finest piece of my wardrobe but I’m ok with that.

dsc_8580
Concerning pattern, I really wanted the dress to be close fitted on my natural waist: I therefore opted for size M, and shortened the flap and the belt, respectively 1.5cm each. I sewed the whole, including button placket, and patatras: it is far too wide at the waist.

I am thinking of elasticating the back belt, but I am afraid of rendering with such thick fabric. A bit annoyed, I bring the dress to my drafting class, hoping that my teacher will help me. And since she’s a real magician, she’s going to bring me the perfect solution!

dsc_8439
In fact the problem was on my back, because of my pronounced curve. She suggested to disassemble the back belt, reduce it and add 2 darts on the back skirt.

dsc_8499
And there we are! The dress is close fitted properly on my natural waist, and it does not yawn in the back.

dsc_8503
The skirt is therefore half circle in the back, and features box pleats on the front.

dsc_8597
You have pockets on the sides, and it is closed by a button placket.

dsc_8625

This is the only really technical point of Rydell: but the designer has published a very clear sewalong on the subject.

The bib is lined, and finished with dungarees buckles.
dsc_8620
dsc_8591
“Did she seriously line her pinafore dress with a hearts printed cotton ?!”

suede-femmes-seins-nus-yes

I’m a crazy, I’m afraid of nothing guys! : D

WELL, be careful if you realize Rydell, the skirt is quite short. Here I lengthened it by 7cms and hemmed on 2.
dsc_8528
I also slightly shifted the buttons on the back waist, so they stick with my darts.

dsc_8623
dsc_8504
Conclusion : if we put aside the lack of drape of my babycord, which plumbs my figure a little, I am still pleased with this piece. I had dreamed for so long to wear a pinafore dress, it’s done! The comfort is great, and I feel really good in it. If you read me, thank you again Chantal for your help!

dsc_8619
Wish you a good week, take care ! ❤

The scalloped bag

I did not leave my crochet bag all summer, but when autumn has finally settled in recent weeks, I had to resign myself: I needed a new bag, more winter-like this one. And for once, I did not have to dig my head for a long time: I had a very precise idea for more than a year!

dsc_8417
If there is indeed a bag that makes me dream, it’s the Satchel from The Cambridge Satchel Company. Regularly I drool on their site, fill virtual baskets that I never validate … and sometimes pick up some inspiration. If I do not yet feel able to make a copy of their famous satchels, I really liked their collection of “Cloud Bags”, and their scalloped bags. Would it be a great inspiration !

dsc_8429
With all that, I realize that I did not even tell you that I had changed my sewing machine. And yes ! Roberta has given way to Heidi, better known as Bernina 350. Right now we are in the running-in period, and I was eager to test his ability to sew leather.

dsc_8422
Before drafting anything, I had to first find the leather: as it come in random sizes, the dimensions of these will give the size of my final bag. Travelling in the French Alps, I had crossed a tanner who had advised me the store “Varjan” on Marseille. I went there and indeed, visiting the store is worth it: lots of leather, good quality, at a reasonable price.

image1-3
I was searching for black leather, because I have handles made in black imitation. But I crossed the road of this navy leather, and bim, love at first sight.

dsc_8424
Sufficiently flexible to be worked on a domestic sewing machine, but of good quality so that the bag keeps a nice outfit, I liked to sew it. With a leather needle and its saddle stitch (triple stitching), Heidi rather well raised the challenge … finally, almost. She just tinkled on the handles.

dsc_8433
It was impossible to fold and sew the ends of the handles, the result was ugly and cut with the rest of the bag whose rendering was rather clean. But thank God, I had 2 angels on this one. 😉 First Sacôtin and its super tip of the strap ends: the result is ultra clean, and the putting in very simple! And then Julie of the blog Damn Good Caramel, who realizes incredible leather work and gave me the idea of the rivets to fill the handles: here too the putting in is simple, and the result is much cleaner than an approximate seam . I carried the bag yesterday all day and the whole is resistant, I’m happy!

dsc_8431
So, yes, I used a buckle of adjustable handles while my handle is not at all. : D I did not have enough leather to cut a 1m loop, so I cut 2 handles and assembled everything with this buckle found in my stash. : D

dsc_8423
The lining is a fabric that I bought years ago at la Plaine market : a mysterious composition, with an awful drape and an unpleasant smell when I iron it, I think it’s probably the worst purchase I ever did. : D But for a bag’s lining it’s ok.

dsc_8434
Always with my small zipped pocket inside. 😉 For the closing system, I tested for the first time the installation of a twist lock: the putting in here too is very easy, and the result is very clean.

dsc_8426

One might think that I sewed piping on the edge of the flap, but not at all. The effect was not intended, but I find the result rather pretty. ;

Verdict: I am pleased with this bag, especially its dimensions: if the width and the length of last year one balanced rather well, the bottom was too small. As a result, the whole was really small for my daily life. This one really has the right size: the bottom is therefore 8 cms wide, and the bag 31x25cms. The only downside to me is the soft flap: next time I will think about adding a lining between the two layers before assembling it on the back of the bag.
dsc_8435
And I already have my idea for next summer! 😉 I wish you a nice weekend, take care. ❤