Saving Private Jersey

Serendipity : The faculty of making fortunate discoveries by accident.

Known examples: penicillin, the microwave oven, tarte Tatin.

And let me add, my Pyjashort. : D


It all started by a love at first sight during a Agnès B sale : Juliette and I fell on this neon jersey. Hysteria, ideas coming from everywhere and especially, adorable negotiation with a reader of my blog who agreed to share the end of the roll with us. (I do not remember your name, but we thank you again! ❤). We leave with our coupon in hand, already dreaming of a stylish 90’s Moneta, that I will wear with small sneakers.

Jersey is medium thick, with very little drape. And my radar “ALERT UNFLATTERING GATHERS” who was not activated in time, the result was predictable: my Moneta’s ugly.

I understand, too late, that a half circle skirt would have been more flattering. But having already optimized my lay plan for Juliet, I have no more fabric left. I’m tired, it’s late and I imagine to draw a 1/4 circle skirt in the pattern of a gathered skirt. I cut something that vaguely looks like a 1/4 circle skirt. And the result is clear: it’s ugly, it’s too small and worst of all: it’s too tight.

In a desperate impulse, I restore my gathered skirt and pull out my trump card: box pleats. The result is … um … I let you judge by yourself.

The result left me somewhat doubtful, halfway between the stylistic idea found on LSD and the ugliest thing ever sewn. I questioned, seek the opinion of all members of the family and end up having enlightenment: “it’s a little nightgown anyway … but … wait … and night clothes, wouldn’t it be great ??? ”


(Hihihi yes I am very proud of myself. D)

The catch was super easy: I just recovered the top of Moneta, which I added a hem band, like in Ondée. (Thank God I kept a tiny bit of fabric to cut my neck band!)


And I simply cut a short in the skirt.

To do so I used the109 short from Burda July 2011.

Ultra simplified here: I have not sewn pockets, and redrawn the contours of the hem so it is just right. Having no place on my left fabric to draw the seam allowances around the pattern pieces, I copied a 40size at the waist, expanded to a 42 on the hips. And the fit is great !

For lack of fabric again, the belt is thinner than that provided by the pattern. I replaced the elastic by 2 eyelets and a neon green cord.

Conclusion: it’ll probably seem foolish, because there is no technical difficulty in this set, but I’m really proud of this work. Having had the foresight and the courage to insist at the failure to obtain a very cute set, and for once, very helpful (I really need this kind of outfits and of course, I never take time to sew): fate still do great things. 😉


(Here you must imagine Paul on my left who makes faces to make me laugh. ❤)

Good weekends girls, take good care of you! ❤

Chambray McCalls M6696

Otherwise, we found the name of the famous medical disease “OH MY GOD this dress is crazy I would never take it away”? No because today I have a new case to show you. 😉

Ah McCall’s M6696: hit pattern in the USA and England … that was totally unknown to me. And when discovering the Heather’s wax version, that BOOM, love at first sight. But really. Usually before buying a pattern, I weigh the pros and cons forever. But there … 15mins after reading the article, my order was passed in Rascol. Love I tell you.

This chambray comes from Bennytex, bought during my trip last November. I immediately saw a shirt dressq for this summer and when I found out this McCall’s pattern, the association was immediate.

This dress has many charming details, but my favorite is the pleated skirt. Watch as the skirt is nice when the wind rushes!

The other highlight of this dress is the ability to sew according to your cup size. Yes ! You have the choice between three sizes: A / B, C and D.

I confess not being very confident at the beginning: when you have the habit of sewing self drafted patterns, test a new brand pattern can be dicey. So I opted for size 12 and C cup, shortened the bodice by 3cms, and reduces the length of the skirt by 7,5cms. (And bloody fingers crossed at the time of fitting. D)

AND WAS MIRACLE! Honestly, the fit is per-fect. The waist is the way I like it: fitted enough to be flattering, but with the ease needed to sit comfortably.

Other change also made: like many other seamstresses, I did not sew the gathers at the back : I cut the top of the back bodice at the same width as the yoke, and managed the extra fabric at the waist with box pleats.


(Sorry for the back traces / Marseille’s heat / real life / not a fashion blogger 😀 )

I loved sewing this pattern. Really. This is not an easy dress: there are many steps, many details, especially a lot of hand sewing. Generally, I try to sew as fast as possible to switch quickly to another project. There, I wanted to take my time, do things slowly, step by step, as the seam was great. Really, I even used French seams ! : D
There you see the dress on the wrong side. It’s surprising, McCall’s probably isn’t in love with topstitching because there are none here. Placket, collar and belt are sewn by hand. (Normally the hem too but I did not understand the explanations, I simply hemmed with my machine.)

(wrong side, always)

The sewing yoke also had to be sewn by hand, as I did not understand the explanation there either, I preferred the burrito method. (. No, I do not talk about Mexican food, whatever, wecould, it’s one of my great passions: D) (no, more seriously, watch this video below, it is very telling.;))


Armholes are supposed to be topstitched, but the result was really not happy. I preferred the hand sewing. (I discovered one thing : by rubbing the thread against a dry soap, no more knot while stitching. It’s magic!)

The dress has a belt with loops …

… And the neck is the way I like it: with a collar and a collar stand. I did not sew the pockets (always afraid to add thickness where it is frankly not necessary for me). And I have, unsurprisingly, sewn pearl buttons.

Tell me you do the same when you wear a collar. : D

Conclusion : I therefore announce formally a new splash in my favorite patterns. ❤ I loved sewing this pattern, I am delighted with the result, right and wrong sides, and I love wearing it: there will inevitably be little sisters … why not this winter in long sleeves?

Wish you a great week Ladies, take care. ❤

Scraptastic ! #4

Let’s go for some Scraptastic Sewings !

So we start chronologically with the Maia Dress scraps : I was hoping to have enough fabric to cut off the A line dress from the book “Total Liberty pour les petits” and I got lucky because the pattern in size 6 fitted perfectly on the lay plan.

Oh yeah huh, I’m not lying! : D

I had forgotten how the pattern is short, but at the same time, the photo book does not lie. The 3cms hem is within the seam allowances: here I minimized, with mini hem.

For my 5 years old sweetie, it’s ok for this summer. But the great advantage of the A line dress is that you can also wear it in winter! With a long sleeves sweater and opaque tights, it will be perfect.

And then, ok, I can confess : I LOVE sewing this pattern. There is nothing easier, faster and more rewarding than a small A line dress. You assemble the sides of the dress, the sides of the facing, you assemble it at the neckline and armholes, a little bit of notching, you return the whole thing, you made a hem and presto! You have a dress! Isn’t it great ??

And worse then if you play it lazy like me, change the buttons by KAM snaps, and it’s even easier and faster! : D

Conclusion : Juliette loves it, has already chosen the color of the sweater for this winter, and I really enjoyed myself in sewing. Win-win! ❤ Let’s skip to the Charlie Dress scraps ?

Yes, a short, AGAIN. : D In fact, this Burda short is my little A line dress for little boy. : D

Nothing is easier or faster: for this version, I’ve zapped the sides pockets, but kept those topstitched on the back.

A slide, a fun neon cable, 2 eyelets to pass it off, and presto, it’s in the bag!

This one is cut in size 2, and it is perfect for my 2½ years sweetheart.


Conclusion : it fills the wardrobe, it’s easy-peasy and fast, this is a perfect stash buster… basically, I LOVE IT! Let’s finish with Tom ? 😉

This school year, my sweetie needed a work coat. As soon as he knew, he asked me to sew it for him. So I looked for a pattern, and found this perfect one at Gasparine.

The designer, Amélie, is adorable because she gives us this pattern for free ! And pay attention, here free does not mean lower quality: the pattern is well cut and goes with clear explanations.

This work coat is not strictly speaking a #scraptastic sewing, or maybe a little bit. Searching with Tom in the stash, he chose this blue cretonne cotton, once bought at Mr. Albert to sew appliqués to Paul’s linen bed, when he was a baby. I had used barely 10cms: and as chance would have it, the pieces placed on what was left, to perfection. Here you can see the coat in size 8, without modification.

This pattern is really well thought out: the sleeves are elasticated, the buttonband is asymmetric, and a pocket with pencil storage is even expected! Tom preferred a simple pocket with a flex of BB8 above: Cameo and I are therefore set to work with application. 😉

And he also chose white snaps: a real little boy from Marseilles ! : D


Conclusion : I’m not ready to forget his smile when I handed him the coat, complete with love. Forget dresses, bags, and all these things: the true happiness of sewing, that’s it, realize the dreams of our kids! ❤

A good weekend girls and take care of you! ❤

The mountains cardi

One day I’ll probably need to count the tr/dc in that cardigan. Just to realize the huge work it gave to me.

It all started a year ago: crossing the road of a crocheted cardi, on a US account of vintage pieces, the crush : I NEED a crocheted cardi. And Bergère de France rightly proposed in its 2015-2016 collection a crochet cardi, the 132.

(©Bergère de France)

Bergère advocates its Cotton Fifty thread , I replaced with the Sunny thread by Cheval Blanc: less expensive to buy, and 100% cotton. I followed the measurements table and opted for size M.

So I started on a vacation in the Alps last summer, and understood why Bergère stamped it with the “qualified” level : it is not at all complicated to make, if you can read a crochet diagram, but then … it is LONG. But VERY VERY VERY LONG.

In 15 days of vacation, I had barely finished my back. Both say that upon returning to Marseille, he wisely took the dust for months: given my crochet / knitting rhythm excluding holidays (roughly 3 rows in evening in front of the TV), motivation was zero. (And it must be said that in the meantime, I had my Andi Satterlung revelation. D)

And on the highway that took us to our new vacation spot this summer (yes Choupie, the highway has an effect on me quite unexpected: D), I wanted to take it back. (Well I must say we were stuck on Narbonne, the kiddos became crazy in the back of the car and I needed to spend my nerves on something: I therefore confirm that crochet tr/dc with a 3 hook works pretty good. D)

WELL, 15 days allowed me to finish almost all my pieces, it only lacked a few rows on the second sleeve. I thought I had done the hardest part … but that was before I realized that all these beautiful pieces there … I would have to …SEW THEM.

200 (2)

You can not imagine how long it was. And I not even talk of the neckband, along fronts and neckline.

Seriously, I finished it at 2am, and if the whole household was not sleeping, I would have cried for joy. : D

(Pround Papillon 1000X power 😀 )

In terms of fit, I hooked too tight on the sleeves, so they’re a little bit too small, but as I planned to wear it on little dresses with straps, it does not matter. I also find it a bit too long to be completely flattering on my fitted waist dresses, but believe me, given the time I spent on it, nothing will stop me from wearing it. : D

The buttons came from “la Droguerie”.

Conclusion : to get through the countless times where I wanted to quit, I thought that such a piece, delicate and timeless, could stay in the family. I could give it later to Juliet, who can give it to her daughter or her granddaughter … then I regained my hook, and put all my heart to the work. I find it really refined and feminine. Believe me, I’ll take care fiercely. ❤

Wish you a good week, take care. ❤

Mariah Dress

Do you believe in fate ? Or do you think that life is a succession of happy coincidences? The history of this dress there, in any case, has the merit of raising the debate. 😉


(I apologize in advance for the bruised side of the dress: the photos were taken after the ceremony, and cotton + shiny side of the fabric + strong sunlight created an explosive cocktail. D)

Last Saturday, my father got married, and I was privileged to be one of his maid of honor on this particular day. You can imagine the pressure on choosing my dress: so I spent our 15 days vacation to frantically sketching, without ever being satisfied. On the way back, a week before the big day, it was a bit Hiroshima in my brain. : D

And stuck in traffic, bam, the idea : I remembered this cotton satin, found this winter at Agnès B sale. A fabric of incredible quality: mat on the inside, slightly shiny on the right side, quite heavy, which could almost think of taffeta.

Such fabric deserved a sober line, to put in the spotlight: I have immediately seen a strapless dress. And the wedding was a perfect opportunity to test for the first time installation of bones, using the bodice of the Whitney dress.


(Dress on the inside)

One week from the wedding, I had to do with what the sewing shop near me could offer : either sewing bones or plastic ones. I opted for the plastic ones, and the execution is very simple: on my bodice lining, I just created my hems with seam allowances, and placed bones, cut and polished with sandpaper to do not pierce my stretch satin. And look, it works pretty good!

The choice for the skirt was quite hard : given the density of my cotton sateen, I hesitated between pleats or self drafted circle skirt. When cutting I decided on the pleats, and I’m spectical on the result: if, on the front, all is harmonious, it is less happy on the back, where knife pleats would have been more flattering. Well, I will know for the next time.

But why did I mention fate above ? In one week, I unfortunately had no time to match the whole family in home made: I still matched the 5 of us with navy blue shades to keep the family harmonious. And what was my surprise the big day to find that my little sister, the other maid of honor and the groom itself were also in navy blue! I guess great minds always meet. 😉

Conclusion : when we drafted the Whitney dress with my teacher, this one was very disappointed that I hold to draw straps too: for her, that dress should be worn strapless. Had followed a long debate on portability or not of such a dress every day, with the conclusion for myself that special occasion was still preferable. And the marriage of my father turned up at the right moment ! I am delighted to have demystified the myth of bones and delighted with the final result: it fits perfectly. And then, how we feel feminine with bared shoulders: the walk and wearing head straighten automatically, it’s magic!

And why Mariah? This dress, for me it is a true diva dress. And does the world know another diva than Mariah Carey herself!

(Yes this song turned 21 this year. Knock me with my birthday cake next year.. D)

Wish you a great week Ladies, take care ! ❤