I often compare the pattern launchings to bowling games: some balls take to the track, and according to my taste, my desires, my needs, will sooner or later join the channel, disappearing from my sewing landscape. And then there are patterns who tumble, explode all the pins in a split second, like a to-do list perfectly staged, disappearing in favor of a single desire, compelling and irresistible. These patterns, I called my “Strike” patterns and Rue, the last Colette dress is part of them. ❤
Ah Rue. It must be said that this ball there took a huge run-up: Colette had distilled clues the weeks prior the launching, announcing their return to vintage vibes, after some more “modern” patterns. Both say that I literally counted the days before the official release … and I was not disappointed.
I just got a little doubt on the curved seam which was bang on the breast, and the flannel version of Sarai told me the change I needed to do: lengthen the center front bodice. Before anything else, I made a muslin, size 4:
In the end, I find the curved seams rather nice, but I knew it would not work on my chosen fabric, soft and quite thick, especially at the breast pleats. I also had to lengthen the bodice of 2cms. Here are the changes I made:
- lengthen the back of 2cms (according to the lines indicated on the pattern)
- lengthen the central front bodice of 5cms (as explained in this sewalong post) and reduce the same piece of 3cms at the tip, and redrawing the curved line with a french curve
- shorten the side yoke of 3cms, just below the curved line.
I do not know if the method is right, but anyway, it works pretty good. My only complaint is at the level of the chest, under the armholes: there is excess fabric, unsightly but fairly comfortable. Need to fix it for the next one.
(Note that with these head shots, I totally forgot to match the stripes. And I really do not care at all ! D)
Another change: I also shorten the lower back and the top of the skirt back of 1,5cms cause of my quite pronounced back curve.
Concerning the skirt, I shortcut 10cms. If the back is in 2 parts, the front actually consists of 3 parts: the side pleats hide 2 seams. The drape is really beautiful.
(Yeah, twirling skirt !) (35 years old, why ???: D)
I chose the version 1, with short sleeves. I’m really fan of the neckline: associated with quite short sleeves, I find that balance nicely pear shape ladies.
But the other highlight of Rue is its super neat finishes.
(back side of the dress)
Basically, the dress is fully lined: My fabric is thick enough, I chose to only line the bodice and the sleeves with white stretch satin.
Do you remember the neat armholes finishes on my first self draft dress, the technique my teacher taught me? This is exactly the same technique here: quite difficult to sew, but then the result is worth it.
Beautiful right?
In detail, I added white piping on the curved seams.
Regarding the fabric, it was obvious from the start: It had to be stripes. But beware ! Yellow and white, and wide ones. It had to be cotton, not too thick, ideally with some spandex for comfort. Both say the grail. And after hours of search on the net, it is “Aux Tissus de Roubaix” where I found the pearl! You know, I do not like to order on the Internet, but this time, I did well to take the risk: this fabric is exactly what I wanted.
I found the Colette explanations quite clear. All steps are illustrated with sketches, and links to videos are associated on the more technical points. Add to that the super sewalong who stands at the moment, and you really have no reason not you stick to it, if you like Rue !
Conclusion : it is not quite perfect, but for a first try, I’m pretty satisfied with the result. Comfort either at the armhole or waist is really great, I feel as comfy as in a knit dress, I swear ! And those yellow stripes are perfect for the Indian summer we are experiencing: I think I’ll rename it my Vitamine dress. ❤
A great weekend girls, take good care of you! ❤
Ah Gorgeous! You did a great job with your changes. I was so close to that Fabric store in Roubaix last year when I was in Lille but I didn’t get there! (still haven’t sewn my fabric from Toto anyway ;o)
Thank you Colette !
I think your changes make this perfect. The curved seams on the front have to be below the bust to look right, and you did just that. It’s beautiful and looks beautiful on you!
Thank you Lisa !
You have done a fabulous (and seemingly effortless) job on the fit of this. If you were wondering how difficult it really is check out the entries in the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. We all had to make this pattern and it was hard!! Your dress is beautiful
Oh that’s so sweet of you Megan, thank you ! ❤
Beautiful!!!!!
Thank you Susan !