I often compare the pattern launchings to bowling games: some balls take to the track, and according to my taste, my desires, my needs, will sooner or later join the channel, disappearing from my sewing landscape. And then there are patterns who tumble, explode all the pins in a split second, like a to-do list perfectly staged, disappearing in favor of a single desire, compelling and irresistible. These patterns, I called my “Strike” patterns and Rue, the last Colette dress is part of them. ❤
Ah Rue. It must be said that this ball there took a huge run-up: Colette had distilled clues the weeks prior the launching, announcing their return to vintage vibes, after some more “modern” patterns. Both say that I literally counted the days before the official release … and I was not disappointed.
I just got a little doubt on the curved seam which was bang on the breast, and the flannel version of Sarai told me the change I needed to do: lengthen the center front bodice. Before anything else, I made a muslin, size 4:
In the end, I find the curved seams rather nice, but I knew it would not work on my chosen fabric, soft and quite thick, especially at the breast pleats. I also had to lengthen the bodice of 2cms. Here are the changes I made:
- lengthen the back of 2cms (according to the lines indicated on the pattern)
- lengthen the central front bodice of 5cms (as explained in this sewalong post) and reduce the same piece of 3cms at the tip, and redrawing the curved line with a french curve
- shorten the side yoke of 3cms, just below the curved line.
I do not know if the method is right, but anyway, it works pretty good. My only complaint is at the level of the chest, under the armholes: there is excess fabric, unsightly but fairly comfortable. Need to fix it for the next one.
Another change: I also shorten the lower back and the top of the skirt back of 1,5cms cause of my quite pronounced back curve.
Basically, the dress is fully lined: My fabric is thick enough, I chose to only line the bodice and the sleeves with white stretch satin.
Do you remember the neat armholes finishes on my first self draft dress, the technique my teacher taught me? This is exactly the same technique here: quite difficult to sew, but then the result is worth it.
In detail, I added white piping on the curved seams.
Regarding the fabric, it was obvious from the start: It had to be stripes. But beware ! Yellow and white, and wide ones. It had to be cotton, not too thick, ideally with some spandex for comfort. Both say the grail. And after hours of search on the net, it is “Aux Tissus de Roubaix” where I found the pearl! You know, I do not like to order on the Internet, but this time, I did well to take the risk: this fabric is exactly what I wanted.
I found the Colette explanations quite clear. All steps are illustrated with sketches, and links to videos are associated on the more technical points. Add to that the super sewalong who stands at the moment, and you really have no reason not you stick to it, if you like Rue !
Conclusion : it is not quite perfect, but for a first try, I’m pretty satisfied with the result. Comfort either at the armhole or waist is really great, I feel as comfy as in a knit dress, I swear ! And those yellow stripes are perfect for the Indian summer we are experiencing: I think I’ll rename it my Vitamine dress. ❤