Rydell Dress

Ah, I have a lot of dresses. But a garment was sorely lacking in my wardrobe. A garment I dreamed of for an eternity. A project that has always figured in my to-do list, but constantly caught up with other, more impetuous cravings. And then one day you can wear one of your dreams. And that’s priceless. ❤

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At the start, I had a crush on La Thai qui Riz pinafore dress : I needed one too, but in a more fall style. When Pauline Alice lauched the Turia dungarees, I thought of hacking it into a dress … until I banged my nose on Coco and realized my body shape was not ok with trapezoid shapes. So my pinafore dress dream has gently plunged into oblivion … until the exit of Rydell.

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Ah Rydell. To confess to you I first cracked on its name. Secretly I hoped that the designer had chosen it in reference to one of my favorite films, Grease … and when I had confirmation, it was said: we were made to each other. Its fit’n flare line adapted to my morphology and the great versions of my friend Manue convinced me: it was time to cut this babycord, bought years ago at Mr. Albert.

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For years I heard that babycord was a real sewing wound. And so I can confirm it: it’s really painful. The material slips, does not stand to be seamripped and it is very difficult to get clean topstitching. Moreover, mine is stretch: as much to say that I suffered. It is probably not the finest piece of my wardrobe but I’m ok with that.

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Concerning pattern, I really wanted the dress to be close fitted on my natural waist: I therefore opted for size M, and shortened the flap and the belt, respectively 1.5cm each. I sewed the whole, including button placket, and patatras: it is far too wide at the waist.

I am thinking of elasticating the back belt, but I am afraid of rendering with such thick fabric. A bit annoyed, I bring the dress to my drafting class, hoping that my teacher will help me. And since she’s a real magician, she’s going to bring me the perfect solution!

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In fact the problem was on my back, because of my pronounced curve. She suggested to disassemble the back belt, reduce it and add 2 darts on the back skirt.

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And there we are! The dress is close fitted properly on my natural waist, and it does not yawn in the back.

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The skirt is therefore half circle in the back, and features box pleats on the front.

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You have pockets on the sides, and it is closed by a button placket.

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This is the only really technical point of Rydell: but the designer has published a very clear sewalong on the subject.

The bib is lined, and finished with dungarees buckles.
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“Did she seriously line her pinafore dress with a hearts printed cotton ?!”

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I’m a crazy, I’m afraid of nothing guys! : D

WELL, be careful if you realize Rydell, the skirt is quite short. Here I lengthened it by 7cms and hemmed on 2.
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I also slightly shifted the buttons on the back waist, so they stick with my darts.

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Conclusion : if we put aside the lack of drape of my babycord, which plumbs my figure a little, I am still pleased with this piece. I had dreamed for so long to wear a pinafore dress, it’s done! The comfort is great, and I feel really good in it. If you read me, thank you again Chantal for your help!

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Wish you a good week, take care ! ❤

The scalloped bag

I did not leave my crochet bag all summer, but when autumn has finally settled in recent weeks, I had to resign myself: I needed a new bag, more winter-like this one. And for once, I did not have to dig my head for a long time: I had a very precise idea for more than a year!

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If there is indeed a bag that makes me dream, it’s the Satchel from The Cambridge Satchel Company. Regularly I drool on their site, fill virtual baskets that I never validate … and sometimes pick up some inspiration. If I do not yet feel able to make a copy of their famous satchels, I really liked their collection of “Cloud Bags”, and their scalloped bags. Would it be a great inspiration !

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With all that, I realize that I did not even tell you that I had changed my sewing machine. And yes ! Roberta has given way to Heidi, better known as Bernina 350. Right now we are in the running-in period, and I was eager to test his ability to sew leather.

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Before drafting anything, I had to first find the leather: as it come in random sizes, the dimensions of these will give the size of my final bag. Travelling in the French Alps, I had crossed a tanner who had advised me the store “Varjan” on Marseille. I went there and indeed, visiting the store is worth it: lots of leather, good quality, at a reasonable price.

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I was searching for black leather, because I have handles made in black imitation. But I crossed the road of this navy leather, and bim, love at first sight.

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Sufficiently flexible to be worked on a domestic sewing machine, but of good quality so that the bag keeps a nice outfit, I liked to sew it. With a leather needle and its saddle stitch (triple stitching), Heidi rather well raised the challenge … finally, almost. She just tinkled on the handles.

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It was impossible to fold and sew the ends of the handles, the result was ugly and cut with the rest of the bag whose rendering was rather clean. But thank God, I had 2 angels on this one. 😉 First Sacôtin and its super tip of the strap ends: the result is ultra clean, and the putting in very simple! And then Julie of the blog Damn Good Caramel, who realizes incredible leather work and gave me the idea of the rivets to fill the handles: here too the putting in is simple, and the result is much cleaner than an approximate seam . I carried the bag yesterday all day and the whole is resistant, I’m happy!

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So, yes, I used a buckle of adjustable handles while my handle is not at all. : D I did not have enough leather to cut a 1m loop, so I cut 2 handles and assembled everything with this buckle found in my stash. : D

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The lining is a fabric that I bought years ago at la Plaine market : a mysterious composition, with an awful drape and an unpleasant smell when I iron it, I think it’s probably the worst purchase I ever did. : D But for a bag’s lining it’s ok.

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Always with my small zipped pocket inside. 😉 For the closing system, I tested for the first time the installation of a twist lock: the putting in here too is very easy, and the result is very clean.

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One might think that I sewed piping on the edge of the flap, but not at all. The effect was not intended, but I find the result rather pretty. ;

Verdict: I am pleased with this bag, especially its dimensions: if the width and the length of last year one balanced rather well, the bottom was too small. As a result, the whole was really small for my daily life. This one really has the right size: the bottom is therefore 8 cms wide, and the bag 31x25cms. The only downside to me is the soft flap: next time I will think about adding a lining between the two layers before assembling it on the back of the bag.
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And I already have my idea for next summer! 😉 I wish you a nice weekend, take care. ❤

Failed Myrna

I admit that I asked myself the question of posting yes or no this cardigan, knitted but not successful. It is never simple for an ego to recognize a failure, moreover to post it on a blog. And then I thought it was equally important to show that the creative process is not just a road full of successes.

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As soon as my summer Miette finished, I wanted to knit a new cotton cardi. This time I wanted it white. So I chose Myrna, from Andi Satterlund, and opted for size M.

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Confession Moment : yes, I never knit gauge. I know, it’s bad, it’s really bad, and if I crash I just have to blame myself. Wine helps. 😀


For Myrna I was therefore on the wool Paris from Drops, and BIIIIM, bad idea. It is not at all adapted to this model, and besides the comparison of the gauges confirms it: Andi recommends a wool whose gauge is 18×28 (or 18×24 because the explanations are available on 2 different gauges), and The Paris’ gauge is 17×22. And even knitting with explanations for the 18×24 gauge, it does not work at all.

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I started to have doubts by finishing the back and the fronts: the armholes were HUGES. I told myself that by knitting the sleeves the problem would be resolved by itself (yes I am very optimistic by nature), but nothing to do, the cardi was too wide. I then tried to reduce the length of the ribs of the bottom of the body and the sleeves: aesthetically it is a little better, but it’s not a miracle solution.

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As you can see in this picture I did not knit the keyhole in the upper back: honestly I was not a fan of this stylistic detail. I also made the mistake of not picking up enough stitches on the neckline: I never got the right number. At the sixth attempt I gave up. : D

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(Sorry) (You can see here a Butterfly with zero motivation. 😀 )

WELL, I asked myself the question of unknotting it: but what will I do with the wool? To put it right : yes but how? I’m not a knitting master. In the end I decided to keep it as it is: it will not be my favorite cardi, for sure, but I know I will wear it all the same. After the beach, when night falls and you eat an ice cream under the moonlight, it will be perfect. 😉 (Optimistic I tell you: D)

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Or I keep constantly my arms crossed, it works pretty well. : D

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Verdict: You know one of my favorite mantra in sewing: “I never lose. I either win or learn.” (Nelson Mandela). And it also works with knitting: this cardi has taught me to make gauges, to choose with more care my wool. Indeed, the creative path is not a road full of successes. And as Woody Allen says: “If you’re not failing every now and again, it’s a sign you’re not doing anything very innovative.” 😉

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Wish you a good Week-end Girls ! ❤

Scraptastic ! #6

Well well well … what are you doing here you? The #Scraptastic things are not for kids generally ???

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NO MY DEAR !!!! This time, it’s just for me… and it’s so cool. : D

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I didn’t have much left from this denim, let’s say a little less than a meter. It’s funny but in terms of Scraptastic Sewing, I am much less inspired when I still have a lot of scraps. So I stayed a moment to observe my lay plan, trying to find inspiration for children, when BAM, the idea: and if for once you tried to squeeze in something for you? Won’t the Deer and Doe Chataigne pieces enter perfectly on it ?

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BINGOOO! It was time to try the scalloped hem version, with the regular waist.

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Could someone tell me why I didn’t sew this one before ? This detail is so cute, and not complicated to sew. You just have to take your time.

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For the size, I sewed a 40, and as for my previous versions (number 1) (number 2), the fit is good. Except at the back curve.

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Look at that gulf. ^^ Need to fix this for the next one. I also lengthened the short of 2cms.

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Still the concealed zipper on the side (which isn’t invisible at all when I wear the short, we agree: D), and small flowers for the lining.
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PHOTOBOMBING !!!! ❤ ❤ ❤

Conclusion: I’m not wearing my previous versions very often, and it is a pity. When we took the pictures for the Pyjashort, I was worried about the outcome, and in the end I find it unfortunate not to dare more this garment, which suits me pretty good. So this scalloped hem Chataigne, that I intend to wear, winter and summer. I just have to learn to combine top and low garments : I’m so bad at this.

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Let’s skik to the Ondée scraps ?

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I didn’t have much left from this tubular jersey, but just enough to make me a panty. To do so, I opted for the Jalie 3242. This pattern has many qualities:

  • its incredible number of options: for only € 8 (PDF) you can sew panties for you, your daughter, choose between a high or low waist. You can sew a string. You can sew for your man, your son, briefs, boxers … or even … a jock. (Do not ask me what that is.) (I think it’s a string for man but I’m not sure.) (Note that this could make a great Christmas gift) (HONEY JUST KIDDING! )
  • extent of sizes. It starts at 12 months for children, to 13 years. Same in women: 34 to 52.
  • its “layers” option for the PDF. In other words: You can print only the pattern you want, in the size you are concerned, or even multiple sizes if you are between different sizes. And that’s just great.

Here, then, I chose the low waist panty, size T for the waist, size X for the hips. And then you’ll have to believe me (my husband said no to panty pictures 😀 ): it fits me like a glove. I’m SUPER HAPPY of it.

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For the elastic, I opted for an elastic with lace on the edge (found at Bensimon, a wholesaler in Marseilles). And I added a little detail too cute …

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… A bobbin thread button! Isn’t it cute? This is my sister in law who offered me a whole lot a long time ago, and I’m glad I found a project to use them. Seamstress panty! : D

Conclusion : I’m really glad to have invested in this pattern, which I feel will be my best friend for using knit scraps. Thank you Jalie for this great pattern !

Have a nice weekend Girls, take care. ❤

Nineties Vibes

Listen, I don’ know if it’s the return of chokers or pin’s, but then, at the moment, I am in a full Nineties revival . I took out my old albums of Oasis and Blur (YES I HAVE ALWAYS REFUSE TO CHOOSE MY CAMP: D), The Verve, Radiohead and even … yes … even the Spice Girls (I assume completely this sentence: D). WELL, currently home lost 20 years, and the outfit I present you today is quite ok with this.

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I struggled to find inspiration, once summer went away. I understood, by putting summer dresses away, that my wardrobe was very different from one season to another, in terms of colors. If I’m only wearing bright colors in summer, in winter I prefer darker colors. I felt the need to pause, to reconnect to fall vibes, to other desires. And when finally, I kinda”digested” the arrival of autumn, the urge popped up: a buttoned skirt! It was finally time to test the famous Rosari from Pauline Alice.

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I dreamed of a button skirt for ages, and this pattern is exactly what I wanted: a sober, simple and effective design, with details that make the difference … Pauline style!

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I opted for the A version with jeans pockets, but without the small pouch gusset. For the size, I draw a 38.5 size at the waist, graded to a 40.5 on the hips, and the result is … stunning. I honestly did not expect such a great fit!

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I lengthened the short version of 8cm, and opted for metal snaps. (Ah … they drove us nuts. I thought having ordered a pack of 15 in Rascol … but there were 10, the precise number I needed. And my man messed on 2 snaps. All cute he is, he went to get me other ones, which ultimately did not have all the right shade. But we realized this AFTER removing the 8 well posed. : D And guess who had to place a new order in Rascol, this time with TWO snaps sets ??Most expensive skirt ever. D)

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I say that but the denim you see here cost me nothing: I found it during a swap between seamstresses : good quality, with some comfy spandex, a joy to work with. And the match with Rosari is great!

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Even the pockets lining comes from this swap: a small piece of floral cotton that I had not managed to leave behind, and that matches quite well to denim. You will see it much better with the Scraptastic Sewing that will come later!

And then, when cutting the last thread, I wanted to sew a top that would go with it. And I immediately thought of Ondée !

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I found this piece of knit fabric during a yard sale, and I carefully kept for a fall Ondée. I was a little worried about its recovery capacity, which is not great, but it’s ok for a sweatshirt, which does not suffer too much of a loose rendering. You see the shoulders slightly fall, and a warped neckline. Speaking of neckline, here I chose the collar version, but instead of the collar, I sewed a simple neckband.

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Sewn in a 38 size with 7mm seam allowances (Ondée seam allowances are of 1 cm), the fit is almost good. Only the sleeves are too long.

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But I like having too long sleeves, I love hiding my hands in it, grind my fingers like a shy schoolgirl in front of her crush. (Do not tell me you were not a Freshman crushing over a too cute Senior!?) (And you were searching for him in the hallways between 2 lessons ??)

WELL once the final thread was cut, I found it cute pretty… but something was missing. No doubt inspired by the beautiful Odette and Lulu tops, I wanted to customize my own by adding a flex. I spent days looking for an idea, noted perhaps 130 stuff, literally drunk my man with that … and then, while turning the Digster 90s playlist, it happened this song. May be my favorite song of this time.

The idea was finally found. “Lovefool”, with a good girly font, and flowers … because, well, I’m a floral lady. : D

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Conclusion : I’m really delighted with these two parts. The skirt is a perfect basic that I can wear year round. And the sweat is a real blanket, super comfortable. An association to reproduce as soon as possible!

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A good week-end Ladies, take care. ❤