Have you ever banned you from types of clothes like that, for no good reason? Just because in 1995, you had tried a badly cut stuff that had you forever disgusted with a particular shape? Well that’s exactly what I was going through, for years, with wrap dresses.
I still remember this too small wrap skirt, in brown knit fabric, which was really too tight for me. I had bought it, only because it was on sale, and I dragged it for years with my moves, without ever getting rid of it because “you understand, it’s a brand!”. In the end, I gave it to a charity sale, and I’ve been traumatized with wrap dresses since then. I had convinced myself that no dress could ever make the rounds of my SO HUGE hips (sense of measure ^ ^), and so I’ve never thought about sewing this kind of dress, which I found yet so feminine. And then there was Eve.
I resisted for a long time the purchase of the pattern, and then there have been so many nice versions, whether of Bianca or Abi, that I decided to ignore my hesitations and launch myself. At worst, I would learn a lot … at best, I was winning a new dress in my closet. And then I had the perfect fabric in stash: all the conditions were met to get me started. 😉
Having finally found a copy shop in Marseille that prints the A0 formats without charging you a kidney (COREP, 40 Avenue Escadrille Normandie Niemen, 13013 Marseille) (and in addition they are super nice), I opted for the pdf version of Eve, and was quite disappointed to realize, by downloading the files, that the pattern materialized under 3 files A0. A 3 € 40 printing a file A0, if you add the price of the pdf, I could just as well buy the paper pattern directly. I know from now on that it’s better to check upstream in how many files A0 the pdf pattern is coming. (when the option is proposed) (not because sticking more than 25 pages, you forget me, it’s unbearable.: D)
I scrupulously followed the table of mensurations thinking about checking the measurements of the finished garment, and therefore opted for a size 10 on the bodice, which flares on a waist 12 at the hips. Having only 2m of this crepe (bought at Bennytex), I needed to reduce the skirts of 9cms. Thus, all my parts fit on my lay plan, while respecting the straight grain and the sense of the pattern.
The sewing of the dress starts with the bodice. It’s when this one is fully sewn that the neckline, cut in the bias, is stabilized by a cotton stay tape. I add my skirt, quickly perform a first fitting before going to finishes … and discover the extent of the damage.
The neckline has totally stretched, despite the cotton stay tape. It’s a CARNAGE. I could have thrown the dress in the trash, but I had sewed French seams everywhere, I loved this fabric … no, no there must be a solution. And that’s when I remembered the Nissa dress.
When I found myself face to face with this distended neckline, I had called my drafting teacher in panic who had advised me, at this time, to undo and iron it, which, may be, would allow it to recover its original shape. And that if necessary, I could always try to reduce the extra by laying a piece of clear elastic. If for the dress Nissa, the iron was enough, here there was more than 6cms to resorb … the elastic was imposing.
I then measured my neckline, determined the extra, cut a piece of clear elastic of the desired length, and I laid it, as when you want to gather with a rubber band: by gently stretching it during sewing, with a zig zag point. And the miracle was!
Without joking girls (guys?), it was a close call. I didn’t expect such a great result. And it’s by seeing how the skirts cut in the bias have also stretched themselves, that I understood that my fabric didn’t have the least stability.
So I had to redraw the hem with my skirt rounder, and I decided to reduce the length of the dress a little: you know me, I love them above the knee. In all and for all, I shortened the skirts of 16cms (9 during the cutting, and 7 during the hem takeover.)
According to the indications, a hole at the waist is left to pass the link. As my dress was fully sewn in French seams, and as Sew la Jupe, I preferred to sew a buttonhole to replace the hole.
And I sewed a snap to keep the décolleté in place.
Verdict: if we omit the extra of fabric that I discovered in the photos, at the side seams of the bodice, which make a slight blousing of the waist and probably arise from the distension of the fabric, I really like this dress. I find it flattering and feminine. What is amazing is its comfort, which I didn’t expect at all! Add to that the lightness of the crepe, I really feel like leaving my home in a nightie! 😀 I could probably tell you more after a few months of “use”, but right now I am “reassured” of the result: I had the impression, throughout the project, to go dark right in the wall. So to see such a denouement, honestly, it is a real relief! 😀 And if I ever have to redo this pattern, I will probably opt for a more stable fabric, like a cotton batiste.