Sophie Swimsuit / Closet Case Files

If 20 years ago someone told me that one day I will be looking forward to going to the beach to show off in my new home made swimsuit … I confess, I would burst out laughing. The sewing stuff would have seemed impossible, not even being blasted to sew a button. And then, the pride on the beach thing … er … me, the teen complexed to death, who lives in Marseille and do not dare to swim … one day I can stand, the edge of the water, starring people and more!

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Worse darling, you’ll even dare to POSE on a crowded beach in July. And all that, thanks to Heather from Closet Case Files ! ❤

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You know my love for the Bombshell Swimsuit, the first swimsuit Heather drafted, already sewn twice. 2 weeks ago I was sewing the third one … when I discovered her new pattern, Sophie.

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This pattern has absolutely everything I dreamed of: flattering cuts, real supportive bra, sexily modest coverage. Not surprisingly, I abandoned the pending Bombshell and I dived, not without apprehension, in the one-piece version.

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Yeah, a little bit apprehensive because Sophie is a real swimsuit, lined, with cups and underwires. This is no longer the simple sewing, here it’s close to lingerie. So I gathered my supplies: for lycra, I simply used what was left of my last year swimsuit. I just bought the lining lycra in “Tissu des Ursules”. Regarding the additional supplies, I bought the bra cup foam, the underwire and S-hooks in Alysse Créations.

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By starting the project, I was terrified and excited … and it was DE LI CIOUS. I had not felt that way for a long time behind the sewing machine: this is a project that really boosted me, and the result well beyond what I could have hoped for.

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Here you see the inside of the swimsuit. Honestly achievement is not insurmountable, everything is very clearly explained in the booklet. I just struggled a little bit on the underwire: this was the first time I sewed this stuff, but with time and precision, you will come out without worry. And you know what ? Well, it made me want to sew bras, I swear!

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Regarding the fit, I dutifully took my measurements: so I cut a size 8 expanded to a size 10 in the hips. For the cup, according to my measurements, I had to cut the larger cup size, the 5, and sew a 100cms underwire. This seemed to me a lot, since I wear 95C. But I trusted to Heather and the pattern is good: the cups suit me well.

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For the next one, I think I will lengthen a little bit the body pieces, and grade the seat up a size for more recovery. But honestly, for a first version, it is quite successful!

Conclusion : this pattern is a TREASURE, no more, no less. Whether in terms of style, drafting, pedagogy concerning the booklet… this swimsuit is not just a simple pattern. This is a direct move towards femininity and restored confidence. This is an open door to creativity, with all the cuts that can be interpreted to infinity. It is a challenge, which we progress. This is a pattern who looks like Heather, her creator: generous, feminine and very charismatic. And I swear to you … we feel so much like a woman in it!

I can not end this post without sharing this picture spotted in Pensées by Caro few days ago, and that speaks to me in this time loaded with totally bi-polar magazine covers, where you can read in the same time “Loose 3kgs before the summer” and “Curves are sexy!”, obviously with our eternal muse Laetitia Casta (which is as curvy as I am the Duchess of Cambridge) …

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You see, as simple as that !!! 😀 😀 😀

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A great week Ladies !!! ❤❤

Crochet & Cross-stitch

If you follow me for a while, you know I like to change bags every season. And here is my Spring/Summer 2016 edition !

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Initially I did not want to make anything: I had the idea of finding myself a bag or basket, medium height, shoulder straps, and neutral enough to be customized. But after traveling all Marseille, visiting shops, markets, even thrift stores … I had to go to the evidence, it was impossible.

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Foolish I was, I even tried to crochet Hema Sisla Rope so I can confirm: you can’t crochet it. Unless you are a masochist and like fingers bleed. : D

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And while shopping in a Cultura shop I fell on Natura XL hanks from DMC: a bulky cotton. I took 2 hanks, and started a bag shape by improvising: from 15 chains, single/double crochet, increasing on each side of 3 sts for 9 rows up not having wire.

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In the end the bag measures 33 cm wide by 26 cm high. I did not know how to customize it … until I remember that pin on Pinterest.

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Cross-stitch on single/double crochets, isn’t it a great idea ?? And thanks to the grid here, I was able to try cross-stitch for the first time.

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Cross-stitching is very funny, and especially on single crochet in 7, it goes very fast! I used Drops Paris cotton, in double, with apricot / pistachio / pink / red / white / brown colors.

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To close it, in the last slip stitchs, I just crocheted a few chains to form a loop, and I chose an old button. The bag is lined with leftover Ikea fabric, hand sewn on the edge of the bag and in which I sewed 2 buttonholes (interfaced) to get the handles.

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Handles recycled from a braided belt that I was no longer using. I wear it every day for one week and the matter stands rather well, I’m happy!

Conclusion : the result is not at all what I planned at first, but I’m really delighted with the result. I like his vintage and romantic style, and it sticks well with my little summer dresses. (Juliette already made an option on it for September, the sweetie ! ❤)

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Have a good week-end Ladies ! ❤

In the Kaylie Sunshine Family I’m asking for…the daughter !

Last post about our outfits for Paul’s Baptism : today, let me introduce you to Juliette’s dress. ❤

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I chose the dress 135 from Burda September 2015.

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Ah folk series from Madame Burda, we are entitled each year. You could be totally hermetic to the style, but if you make an effort of abstraction, these patterns can be really great. And this one is no exception to the rule.

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I was looking for a simple dress with a lined bodice, and this one met all of my needs. As you can see, I pulled the neckline up as I judged it too deep, and I replaced the gathered skirt with a 1/4 circle skirt. Because I know the taste of my sweetie with turning skirts ! 😉

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The dress is identical to mine on the construction: bodice lined with stretch satin and topstitched neckline on the inside…

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…and a concealed zipper on the back.

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The dress is made from the same cotton satin than mine (and Paul’s short) (Chantal and yes, everything is from my 2m coupon !)

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Was lucky on that point. 😀

Only downside, I chose the size 110, Juliette’s usual size and the result is quite large.

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Must admit my baby girl is a true shrimp. The small Liberty belt, sewn for the event, helps to reduce the waist. And then she will be able to wear it this summer without choking in case of hot weather. 😉

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Crushing on her little face ! ❤

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Well, let’s see if it’s turning ?

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Nice job !!! ❤

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Finally, the 2 accessories sewn for my man and my big boy: bow ties. ❤

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And the whole family on the big day. ❤

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Have a great week-end Ladies ! ❤

In the Kaylie Sunshine family I’m asking for…the Mommy !

Oh we’re talking about me right ? 😀 So, let’s go, here my dress for the big day !

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I have long dreamed of a beautiful dress with a sweetheart neckline. Last year I was about to buy the Kim dress (By Hand London), but my experience of Sophia dress quite scared me. If I had to modify a pattern, better drafting it by myself : and Paul’s baptism was the perfect opportunity to jump into it !

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I naively thought that reaching this result from my dress would be easy: I was left with only one class of 3 hours before the baptism. “Oh, we remove the sleeves, we quickly redraw the neckline and we draw a 1/4 circle skirt, it should be fine, no?”

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(My teacher’s face at this moment 😀 )

And no, it was not that easy! Already armholes are not drafted in the same way, as if they had sleeves or not. It was therefore necessary to work on this point. We also put the neckline up and drew this heart shape. But above all, we worked a lot on the skirt.

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I love 1/2 circle skirts, but let’s be realistic, this is not the most flattering form on me. I thought of a A-line skirt, but frankly, I have a little belly and this form is not ideal for hiding it. I then thought of a 1/4 circle skirt … until my teacher, like a magician, brings me the solution.

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We traced a half circle skirt, I quickly sewn a muslin, and fitting after fitting, we adjusted the skirt to my curves, removing a lot of fabrics on the sides and back (to reach a 1/4 circle skirt) while keeping some fabric under the navel, so that the skirt remains flattering and both dancing. Honestly, I was pretty skeptical by tracing the shape of the skirt from the muslin. I sewed my dress, and when I tried it on…


… It was exactly what I dreamed of. Not even knowing that this was possible! Retro but not too much, chic while totally casual, dancing without fearing windy days… This is the best skirt for me. Ever.

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For the bodice we didn’t have time for a muslin: my teacher had indeed warned me that I might have a concern at this level:

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… And she was right! I was so in a rush that I have not taken the time to check this out before lining my bodice. Since we changed the pattern accordingly: a new version is expected in the coming weeks to check everything.

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The dress was made in cotton satin from Mr. Albert, and the bodice is lined with stretch satin fabrics found at “La Maison des Ursules”.

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(Wrong side of the dress)

The back is closed with an concealed zipper…

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… And I  topstitched the neckline so that the lining stays in place.

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For the big day I sewn a little belt in the Kaylie Sunshine Liberty.

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Conclusion : Ok, you will tell me that I always finish with the same words, but this dress, I swear, it’s true love. You know, there are clothes that affect you as a magic wand: you wear them, and without understanding why, you straighten up, you light up, you feel pretty, you do not walk … you fly. I know it sounds super weird, but this dress there is all this at once. Chantal, if you read me, thank you for your help and this beautiful gift that you gave me, taking the time to understand that I could not even say aloud. You’re a real magician. ❤

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A nice weekend girls, I’ll be right back with the sweetie’s dress! ❤

In the Kaylie Sunshine Family, I’m asking for…Paul !

If you follow me for a while, you know that I like to match my family for big events. The baptism of our little one was no exception to the rule, and I present you today Paul’s outfit for to the big day. ❤

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For this beautiful day, I really wanted to sew him a little shirt, matched with a bib short. I searched into my patterns and the only shirt I could find in Paul’s size was this one :

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The shirt 4B is from a Special Edition “Fait Main” Bambino dating back to 2011. I cut it in a white poplin from Agnès B, but quickly abandoned the project along the way: the explanations were incomprehensible, the drafting was strange (placket reported, no collar stand), and I was unable to obtain neat finishes. At eight days of the baptism, I was in trouble. And then I remembered Peek-a-Boo patterns.

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You remember, I discovered this brand with Tom’s pea coat this winter. And their Classic Oxford Button-up shirt was exactly what I needed! Economical, fast reception as PDF, classic line with multiple variations and above all, a large range of sizes: from 3 months to 12 years !

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As for the pea coat, I loved sewing this pattern : it’s very easy. All steps are photographed: even if your English is light, honestly, you can go. Only downside (and I noted the same for the pea coat): the sleeves are cut on the fold, there is no difference between the back headstock and the front, which is surprising. But on Paul you can not see a thing.

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I got this piece of linen in my stock, so old I can not remember his origin, and I chose the pearl buttons. Be careful if you try this pattern : it sizes a bit small. I opted for the 2 years for my sweetie. Do not act like me and take the measurements of your kid BEFORE sewing ! : D

Let’s see the short ?

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Here you can see Martin pattern from Citronille. I cut 2 years size.

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The realization was rather simple, I just made a blunder on the belt: having misunderstood the assembly diagram, I folded my cloth strip over time it was necessary. It is smaller in height but above all, much thicker. It was a nightmare opening the buttonholes. (I broke a seam ripper, I didn’t even know that was possible!: D)

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It was made in cotton satin from Mr. Albert, and I covered the buttons with the Liberty chosen for the big day: the Sunshine Kaylie Aqua (found in Cousette).

Conclusion : I’m really happy with these two pieces, he can wear independently of each other this summer. And I think Mr. Paul enjoyed his outfit too! ❤

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A good monday everyone, I’m coming back in the week with some more outfits ! 😉